Materials and Tools:
cement backer board & cement screws (optional)
- Avoid using highly glazed tiles in a bathroom or kitchen; they tend to get slick when water spills on them.
- Buy 10 to 15% extra tile as a cushion against mistakes and future breakage.
Thoroughly clean subfloor. If subfloor is wood, install cement backer board to stabilize it.
Start in a 90-degree corner. Lay out tiles in a dry run to make sure they fit.
Using a wet saw, cut one tile into a triangle diagonally from opposite tip to opposite tip. Lay half of first tile with cut side facing 90-degree corner and tips almost touching walls at a 45-degree angle.
Trace tile on subfloor with pencil.
Using first tile as a guide, lay out remaining tiles, using spacers to allow for grout joints.
Parallel guidelines on floor will help keep tiles straight. Set partial tiles on top of and overlapping whole tiles; then mark cut lines with a wax pencil.
Using a wet saw, cut partial tiles to fill spaces along walls.
Use a drill with a paddle attachment to mix thinset.
Thinset should have consistency of toothpaste.
Using a square-notched trowel, spread a 2-foot square of thinset on subfloor. Don’t cover guidelines with thinset.
Set first tile, then partial adjoining tiles. Use tiles spacers to keep joint lines uniform.
Set remaining tiles.
Keep tiles at same height by tapping a board across surface with a rubber mallet.
Do not walk on tiles until thinset has dried.
When thinset is dry, use a grout float to fill joints with grout. Mix grout in small batches.
When grout is dry, sponge away film from tiles, then buff with clean rags.
To keep floor looking its best, apply grout sealer to all joints.