Remove the nails in the corner cap.
Score down the damaged lap siding with a utility knife.
Remove the nails on the lap board then use the claw of the hammer to split the board down the center (Image 1).
Once all the nails are removed from the adjoining board, the damaged one should just pull out.
Take the replacement board, fit it in place (Image 2) and nail it in with a hammer using galvanized nails. Be sure to nail into the existing holes on the adjacent siding. Nail straight down on the replacement board in order to hit studs. Fill in the nail holes.
Before the fiber-cement shake panels (Image 1) go up you'll need to put up the fascia board. Add new wall sheathing if the current one is damaged.
Note: Fiber cement siding is a composite of Portland cement, silica and wood fibers so it should last much longer than real wood!
Snap a chalk line as a reference point for the transition board, also known as a freize board.
Cut flashing to keep moisture from seeping behind the trim. Slip the flashing underneath the wall sheathing (Image 2) and nail the flashing in place using galvanized roofing nails
To replicate the look of cedar shake, cut a 2" piece of fiber cement board that will go right above the drip cap, then a larger piece on top of that — and finally the shingle panels.
Nail the starter strip in place above the drip cap with a coiled nailing sider. It doesn't need to fit exactly in the corner.
The wider plank will need to be cut at an angle so use an angle finder. Slide it in place until you have the proper angle. Transfer the angle to all the planks and the shingle panels.
Nail the first plank in place then start on the shingle panels. Be sure to line up the shingle panels with studs so rather than starting at the end, start in the center and line the end of the shingle panel up with the center stud. If you line one end up with a stud, the other end and all the other panels will be lined up.
For the second course, leave a 7-1/2" exposure, which will cover the end of the notches on the first course.