How to Build a Murphy Bed

See the graphic for component measurements to build the bed. Since these cuts are all straight and simple, your local hardware store may be able to cut them for you.

(A1) FRAME STRUTS - (10) 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 60-1/2" solid wood board
(A2) FRAME SIDES - (2) 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 80" solid wood board
(B) SIDE RAILS - (2) 3/4" x 5-7/8" x 81-1/2" plywood
(C) FOOT RAIL - (1) 3/4" x 3" x 62" plywood
(D) HEAD RAIL - (1) 3/4" x 7-7/8" x 62" plywood
(E) FACE PANEL - (2) 3/4" x 32" x 81-1/2" plywood
(F) HEADBOARD - (1) 3/4" x 15-7/8" x 64-3/8" plywood
(G) VERTICALS - (2) 3/4" x 15-7/8" x 87-1/8" plywood
(H1) HEADER BOARD - (1) 3/4" x 14-3/8" x 64-3/8" plywood
(H2) HEADER RAILS - (2) 3/4" x 2-3/4" x 64-3/8" plywood
(H3) MOUNTING CLEATS - (2) 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 14-3/8" solid wood board
(I) LEG SUPPORT RAIL - (1) 3/4" x 3/4" x 60-1/4" plywood
(J) MATTRESS SUPPORT - (2) 1/4" x 31" x 80" plywood

Make sure there is ample room for the bed to extend before you begin building. Determine the size of the bed and orientation (pivoting on the long side or short side of the bed). These instructions are for a queen-sized bed pivoting on the short side .

Lay out the 10 frame strut pieces (A1), and pair them to create five struts. For each strut, glue two strut pieces in an "L" shape using wood glue. Hold the pieces together, and drill pilot holes 8” apart along the length of the struts. Secure them with 1-½” screws.

Place the struts 20” apart, perpendicular to the frame sides (A2). Drill pilot holes, and attach with 2” screws.

Round one corner of each side rail (B) to a 2-7/8” radius using a jigsaw (Image 1). Pre-drill for the hardware, and follow the instructions included in your particular hardware (Image 2). The rounded corners should face up at the foot of the bed.

Drill five equally-spaced pilot holes from the inside of the sub-frame using a 1-1/4" bit, and attach the head (Image 2) and foot rails with 1-1/4” screws (Image 2).

Place the side rails (B) next to the sub-frame, making sure the rounded ends (where the leg hardware will be attached) are at the foot and that the leg hardware is mounted on the outside. Drill pilot holes from the inside of the sub-frame on each side of each strut using a 1-1/4" bit. Attach the rails to the sub-frame with 1-1/4” screws. Next, drill pilot holes (two holes per corner) from the outside through the side rails into the head rail and foot rail. Attach with 2" screws (Images 1 and 2).

Lay both face panels (E), best face down, with long sides butted together (Image 1). Carefully align the bed frame assembly on top of face panels (Image 2). The panels should extend 1/4” beyond the side rails on each long side. The panels should be flush with the foot rail (C), but extend beyond the head rail (D). Once the sub-frame is in place, trace between the struts to guide glue application (Image 3). Next, trace the 1/4” panel reveal on the sides.

Secure struts by applying a bead of glue to the face panels (E), following the pencil guide made in the previous step (Image 1). Carefully reposition the sub-frame on the glue, and confirm it is flush with the panels at the foot and centered on the sides. The sequence that you apply the screws is important to keep the face panels and sub-frame aligned. First, secure the last strut on the foot with 1-1/4” screws on the corners. Next, insert two screws in the center of the foot rail strut. Then, screw the corners at the head of the bed. Once the corners are secure, screw remaining struts to the face panels at approximately 6-inch increments (Image 2).

Attach the mounting cleats (H3) flush with the short ends of the header board (H1) by drilling pilot holes then attaching with 2" screws. Make sure the header has the best face down (Image 1). Next, screw a header rail (H2) to the rear side of the header board (H1). Leave 1/2” of the header rail (H2) extending beneath the header board (Image 2). Align the remaining header rail (H2) with the front edge of the header board assembly, and leave the 1/2” extension underneath. Because the face will be visible, secure with glue and a nailer and finish nails instead of screws (Images 3 and 4).

The verticals (G) make up the sides of the cabinet, and the header makes up the top. Attach the verticals to the short sides of the header with a drill and 2" screws (Image 1). If necessary, cut a notch with a jigsaw to allow clearance for base molding so the cabinet stays flush with the wall (Image 2).

Use an iron to bond the veneer tape to all the plywood's visible edges for a finished look.

Find the studs in the wall, and screw through the back side of the header to attach the cabinet to the wall.

Follow the instructions provided with your hardware kit. Make sure all the mechanical parts fit and function (Images 1 and 2). Then, remove the hardware to make finishing the surfaces easier. Paint or stain in your desired finish, and reinstall hardware, including the leg support (I), according to kit instructions (Image 3).

Attach handles to the outside surface of the face panels at a comfortable height for you. Generally, 66 inches from the floor is a good height. We built a base version, but you can customize with wooden trim, decorative hardware, chalk paint, etc. Make sure the decorative additions don't interfere with the lowering of the bed.

Install the mattress support panels (J) to the inside of the bed to cover the struts using 1-1/4" screws (Image 1). Next, attach the elastic bands (in the kit) into the struts and through the mattress supports using 1-1/4" screws (Image 2).