Step 1

Cut the Concrete

Begin by taking measurements. Measure 3-1/2" away from the stucco and make a mark. Snap a chalk line over the mark and spray the line liberally with acrylic paint to prevent accidental removal of the line. Use a circular saw with a diamond-tipped blade to cut the concrete, spraying the blade with water to keep it lubricated during the cutting process. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when changing blades. Use a roller guide along with a straightedge to help cut a perfect line (Image 1). When cutting is complete, drill holes in the concrete; the holes will facilitate the chipping process (Image 2).

Step 2

use a pickax to break up the area further

use a pickax to break up the area further

Break up the Concrete

Use hammers to begin breaking up the areas between the holes. To break up the area further, use a pickax. With the weep screed (screen device installed in outdoor stucco to allow moisture to drain to the exterior) exposed, it will be able to do its job of letting trapped moisture out from behind the stucco.

Step 3

Create a Gravel Drain

If replacing the weep screed is not an option, the solution is to create a new drain for the water to pass through. If installing a new drain is not possible, another option is to create what’s known as a French, or gravel, drain. Dig a trench, directing it away from the area of problem drainage, and fill with gravel; the trench will direct moisture into a more desirable location (Image 1). Add decorative, low-maintenance plants such as horsewhips (Image 2). Cut through the plant root with a knife, separating the foliage into small sections. Plant the sections and cover the soil around the plants with pea gravel for a finished look (Image 3).

Step 4

caulk gap between brick coping and lining

caulk gap between brick coping and lining

Caulk the Gaps

One last step to ensure water doesn’t get into the pool deck is to caulk the gap between the brick coping and the lining. Apply a bead of polyurethane Deck-O-Seal over the gap, pushing it into the gap until the surface is level with the old caulking.

Step 5

Add a Grounding Rod

Find an area to place the rod where it won't come into contact with underground plumbing or utility company wiring. Use a tree stake driver to drive the rod into the ground. When you’ve gone as far as possible with the driver, use a sledgehammer to drive the rod into the ground until only a small section is left exposed (Image 1). With the rod in place, attach the bond wire to the grounding electrode (Image 2). Now, if any current leaks from the motor, it will go straight into the earth.