Bottom End – one at 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 8-7/8"
Sides – two at 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 37-3/8"
Left Top End – one at 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 14-1/4"
Right Top End – one at 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 13-1/2"
Bottom – one at 3/4" x 19-3/8" x 47-3/4"
Lid – one at 3/4" x 19-3/8" x 47-3/4"
Support Blocks – two at 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 2-1/2"
Handle – one at 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 1"
In any woodworking project, it's typically best to cut all parts as you need them and not all at once. One small error can ruin an entire stack of lumber.
This project uses pocket-hole joinery in one step.
Use the layout in image 1 (below) as a guide for marking and cutting the bottom end to shape. You'll need a compound miter saw to make the 8-degree bevel cuts on the ends.
Use the layout (image 2) as a guide for marking and cutting the sides to shape. Set your compound miter saw at 37 degrees and 8 degrees to cut the bevels on the respective ends (image 3).
Use the layout (image 4) as a guide for marking and cutting the left top end and right top end to shape. Set your compound miter saw at 37 degrees to cut a bevel on one end. Drill pocket holes in the right top end (image 5).
Attach the right top end to the left top end using glue and 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws (images 1 and 2).
Position the bottom end flush with the 8-degree ends of the sides and mark the position of the sides on the bottom end (image 3).
Attach the bottom end to the sides using glue and #18 x 1-inch wire brads (image 4).
Position the 37-degree ends of the assembly made with the right top end and the left top end flush with the 37-degree ends of the sides and attach using glue and #18 x 1-inch wire brads (images 5 and 6).
Position the base assembly on top of the sheet of plywood and mark the outside and inside edges of the assembly on the plywood (image 1 and 2). This will be the bottom. Move the base assembly to the other half of the sheet of plywood and mark only the outside edges of the assembly for the lid.
Use a jigsaw to cut the bottom and lid to shape. With the marked side up, position the bottom flush with the edges of the assembly and attach using glue and 1-1/4" deck screws (image 3). Use three deck screws on each part (image 4).
Turn over the assembly (image 1). Position the lid flush with the edges of the assembly and mark the center of the left side of the lid (image 2).
Position the continuous hinge centered on the left edge of the lid and left side. Apply masking tape or painter's tape to the hinge to hold it in place. Use a self-centering hinge bit to drill pilot holes for the hinge screws. Start with the middle screw holes, then the ends and work back toward the middle (image 3).
Attach the two support blocks together using glue and #18 x 1 1/4-inch wire brads. Drill pocket holes (for 3/4" stock) on the support block assembly.
Position the support block assembly 27-3/4" from inside edge of the bottom end with the end of the assembly perpendicular to the side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws (image 1).
Turn over the coffin assembly. Measure 29-1/4" along the same edge to which the support block assembly is attached. Mark a line perpendicular to the edge. Drill a countersunk pilot hole at 4 inches from edge on this line and drive a 2" screw through the bottom and into the support block assembly (image 2).
Turn over the coffin assembly. Drill a pilot hole for the folding support hinge centered across the width and 1/2-inches from the end of the support block assembly. Attach the folding support hinge to the support block assembly using one of the screws supplied with hinge (image 3).
Position the lid perpendicular to the coffin assembly and attach the other end of the hinge to the lid using #8 x 1/2" washer-head screws (image 4).
Position the handle 28 inches from the end of the lid flush with side. Attach using glue and #18 x 1-inch wire brads.