Wire-Wrapped Ring Form

Here's one technique for creating a wire-wrapped ring.
creating wire wrapped ring with hand fired stones

creating wire wrapped ring with hand fired stones

Jeri Frank's husband fires the stones for her jewelry creations; she does the wire work. Here's one of Frank's designs.

Related To:

Materials and Tools:

3 ft. 22-gauge 14K/20 gold-filled 1/2-hard square wire
2 ft. 21-gauge 14K/20 gold-filled 1/2-round 1/2-hard wire
1 ring cab (1/2" wide x 1" long)
ruler with millimeters
permanent marking pen
ring mandrel
pin vise
flush cutters
flat nose pliers
fine-blade knife

Steps:

1. Cut ten 3-1/2" lengths of 22-gauge wire. Place side-by-side (flat).

2. Secure each end of bundle with temporary wrap and mark center.

3. Measure width of stone and add 1/2". Center that measurement in the center mark of the wire bundle.

4. Place five wraps on each of the last two marks, wrapping outward toward temporary wraps.

5. Using ring mandrel, bend bands into a U-shape, with the center mark as the bottom of the U. Bend U enough to make temporary seat for stone on top of each of five wraps.

6. Remove temporary wraps, then use knife to raise outside wires at bottom of U shape to make permanent seat for stone.

7. Measure and raise next wires to secure top of stone. Secure wires on both sides of stone with wires from top of U. Use pin vise to twist wires before bending.

8. Repeat steps until the ring is finished.

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