Surface the 2x6s by running them through a planer. This will skim the boards and give them a fresh surface.
Fit the boards together by interlocking the tongue-and-groove sides. They don’t need to be completely even since the ends will be cut off flush later. To ensure that the boards are tightly compressed during the next steps, lay 2" strips of wood across the top and screw them onto the table surface (In this project, screws were driven into the table top because the table was going to be distressed. Do not use this method if a smooth, clean finish is desired).
Flip the table over to begin making the skirt frame. Rip down 17-1/3" 2x4s for the short end, 53" 2x4s for the long end, and 8-1/2" mitered pieces for the diagonal corners. Create pocket holes with the pocket jig and clamp so that the frame will later screw into the table.
Start assembling the skirt. Nail the pieces together, leaving space at the corner for the 4x4 legs that will be inset 3-1/2 inches from the table corners. The small mitered blocks (or cross braces) will be positioned diagonally from the table corner so it holds the frame pieces together.
Once the frame is assembled, screw the skirt into the table top through the pocket holes with 1-3/4" screws.
Now that the skirt is complete, flip the table over and unscrew the 2" wood strips. Cut the top to the desired length with a circular saw (This project was 72" long by 33-1/2" wide, which allowed for a 3-1/2" overhang on all sides from the skirt).
Now it’s time for finishing touches. Seal the table, sand it down and stain it. Be sure to cover the iron with tape while staining to protect it.