The DIY Network Needle Arts Glossary
Backstitch: A stitch sewn one stitch length backward on the front side and two stitch lengths forward on the reverse side to form a solid line of stitching on both sides
Bar tack: A very short thread reinforcement for stress points
Baste: To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily
Bias: A line at a 45-degree angle to the selvage often utilized in the cutting of garments for smoother fit
Boxing: The long horizontal strip of fabric that connects the top and bottom of a seat cushion
Buckram: A stiff open-weave fabric used mainly for interfacing
Clean finish: To stitch 1/4" from the edge and press to the wrong side (if the raw edge won't be stitched down in another step, stitch down)
Ease: To make one piece of fabric fit onto another by evenly pulling in the extra fabric with out making any gathers or tucks
Edge-stitch: A row of stitching that appears on the very edge of a garment, normally 1/8" or less
Facing: A piece of fabric used to reinforce another, usually at a seam
Fashion fabric: The outer fabric in a garment
Finger press: To open seam allowances with the thumbnail
Flat felled seam: A durable type of seam generally found on jeans
French seam: A strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges
Fusible fabric: A thin layer of material containing adhesive that is activated with a hot iron
Gather: To pull (fabric) along a line of stitching so as to draw into puckers
Give: Degree of elasticity
Grade: To trim each seam allowance to a different width to reduce bulk
Grain: The direction of threads in cloth
Hand: The feel of or tactile reaction to something (as silk or leather)
Interfacing: An extra layer of fabric that provides shape and support in the detail area of a garment
Interline: To sew a lining between the ordinary lining and the outside fabric
Miter: A diagonal fold made at the corner in an edge finish
Nap: A hairy or downy surface of a fabric ("with nap" refers to any fabric surface that looks different when held up or down)
Pile: A coat or surface of usually short close fine furry hairs
Rolled hem: A hem created by folding the raw edge under 1/8 to1/4" twice and topstitching
Seam allowance: The area of fabric between the stitching and the cut edge
Self-fabric: The fabric from which a garment is made
Selvage: The edge on either side of a woven or flat-knitted fabric, finished to prevent raveling
Stay-stitch: Stitching done to stabilize fabric and help pieces fit together
Stitch in the ditch: Pressing the seam allowances to one side and topstitching as close as possible to the seam
Tack (see bar tack)
Topstitch: To make a line of stitching on the outside of a garment close to a seam
Tuft: The dimpling or bunching of fabric that occurs when a button is pulled tightly against padded fabric
Understitch (see stitch in the ditch)
