This planter can be tailored to create a larger or smaller box, a taller or shorter stand. Add drain ports in the bottom or a trellis on the back. The method of construction here is probably a little more organic than what you are used to, at least where measurements are concerned. One reason is that I used cedar, which tends to be slightly cupped and the board thicknesses/widths are rarely consistent. Plus the box is designed with minimal bracing — only enough to hold itself together — so cutting it to fit made the most sense to me.
The real structure of this wooden planter is provided by the base. If you plan on using only the box and not the stand, you’ll need to add some extra support into the bottom of the box. The project as a whole is designed to hold upward of 400 lbs, enough for the wet soil and plants.
Cut list: This list is variable based on the size of the box and the fluctuation of the board dimensions. The cut list is achieved in an organic fashion through the process described below, i.e. the measurements are determined by the process in a measure-as-you-go method. You can pre-cut all of the pieces to the cut list, however, because of the materials, you may need to trim a board or two to make it all fit together nicely.
(4) 1x6 x 6’
(6) 1×6 x 22"
(6) 1x6 x 73-1/2”
(2) 2x2 x 22”
(4) 2x2 x 13”
(2) 2x2 x 14-1/2"
(4) 4x4 x 23-3/4
(2) 2x4 x 6’
(4) 2x4 x 19-3/8”
Rip one of the 2×4s into 2×2s. You can get two 8’ lengths plus a little sliver from the middle. Doing this first can save you a little time later. The 2×2 will be used as structure for the box.
For the bottom of the box, lay all the 1x6s on the ground. Look for splits, knots, warping, etc. Pick out the worst four, these are going to be the bottom of the box. Cut the four to 6-foot lengths. While you’re at it, cut two of the 2x4s to 6-foot lengths and set them aside. These will be used later to make the stand.
You’ll need two of the end pieces and the two braces for this step to start the end panels. The braces will be attached 2-1/4” from the edge of the 1x6s (we’ll call this the bottom). Using clamps to hold them together, pre-drill two holes 6” from the end and attach with 1-5/8″ screws.
Lay each of the assembled pieces on the flat side alone with two more of the end pieces. Measure the distance from the top of the brace to the end of the three boards. It should be in the 13-1/8 neighborhood. Cut four pieces of the 2×2 to this length, these will be the corner braces. Attach them along the edges of the 1x6s by pre-drilling and screwing the 1×6 to the bracing.
Strengthen the joint between the bottom brace and the corner braces by drilling up through the bottom and driving a 3” screw into each corner. You now have the two box ends.
Measure the outside length of the box. It should be around 73-1/2”. Those six remaining long pieces of 1×6? Cut those to this length. Attach the sides to the corner braces. See that overhang in the picture? DON’T do this. I actually left sides long and cut them flush after assembly. What ended up happening for me is I ended up with some sloppy ends.
Attach the sides to the bottom boards using 1-5/8” deck screws. My method: locate the center and pre-drill holes every 12” outward from center. Pop an extra screw in each of the corners to attach the sides to the ends.
Set the assembled box on its bottom. On the inside of the box, measure from the bottom to the top. You should get a measurement of around 14-1/2. Cut 2 pieces of 2×2 to this length. Attach these vertically inside the box in the middle. Flip the box over and drive a 3” screw through the bottom into the side brace.
Use a chisel to remove what is left. It doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect, so don’t sweat a little grove here or there. The point is that the weight of the box and soil will pass through the 2×4s into the leg at this point. It will also serve as the foundation for the structure.
Take the box and flip it upside down. Remember the 6-foot 2×4s? Place them in the bottom of the box. If they are a little too long, trim a little off. If they’re a tad short, don’t sweat it, not a biggie. What we’re doing here is measuring the space in-between the 2x4s. It should be in the neighborhood of 19-1/4”. Be sure to make the this measurement at the ends of the box as well as in the middle. I found that my middle was slightly narrower than the ends. Cut four pieces to fit a little loosely in between the 2×4s. Really the easiest way to do this is to put a 2×4 in place, mark it and cut it, custom fitting each to its position.
Lay the sides and end 2×4’s on out in a loose rectangle. Take a leg and turn it upside-down and clamp it into place in a corner of the 2×4’s (the notches you cut out should mate nicely to the 2×4’s). Check for square. Pre-drill and screw into place using 3” screws. Do the same on the end pieces (clamp, drill, screw).