How to Tile a Master-Bath Floor
Retiling a floor can be a daunting task, but it's easier than you think and can be done in a day by yourself. Learn how to retile a floor in a master bathroom with these easy steps.
After deciding on the height you want the beadboard, strike a level line across the wall. Measure for the first piece along the side wall.
Paneling needs to be acclimated to the location where it will be installed for at least 24 to 48 hours prior to the installation.
Cut the beadboard (paneling) using a circular saw and add some construction adhesive to the back.
Place the beadboard on the wall, making sure to align it up with the guide.
Secure the beadboard paneling by using a brad nailer and nailing the corners and edges. This will hold the board in place, and the trim at the top and bottom will hide the nails.
During the installation of most paneling, a gap of 1/16" should be left between panels to allow for expansion during periods of increased humidity.
The next piece of beadboard goes on the sink wall. Measure and mark for the holes for the drains and supply lines.
Drill out the holes using hole-saw attachments on the drill.
Place the beadboard up through the drain pipes and supply lines, and attach it the same as before with a brad nailer.
Measure and cut the rest of the beadboard pieces and install, working your way around the room.
Cut the chair railing with a miter saw and install it along the top of the beadboard. The baseboard goes on the same way as the chair railing.
If you're looking for a good alternative to wood molding, consider medium-density fiber board (MDF). It won't warp or splinter, and it come pre-primed and ready to paint.
Finish off the trim by filling in the exposed nail holes and any spaces that aren't perfectly aligned with caulking.
The final step is to apply one more coat of drywall compound to the wall, and since it's quick-set, you'll need to work fast. Sand any rough spots and apply the second coat of mud "lighter" than the first.