DIY Network

All Projects

TV Projects

    What Do You Want To Work On?

      What Activity Do You Want To Do?

        0

        Available Projects

        Get Results

        Replacing a Slider With Hinged Doors

        This DIY Basic will provide tips on replacing a slider with hinged doors.

        More in Windows Walls and Doors

        Step 1: Watch an Overview Video

        Step 2: Gather Your Materials and Tools

        Materials and Tools:

        12 to 20 cedar/impervious shims/spacers
        1/4 pound of 2-inch galvanized roofing nails
        1 16d nail
        12 to 30 feet of closed cell foam backer rod/sealant backer
        door flashing tape
        exterior polyurethane or silicone sealant
        low-pressure polyurethane door foam (DO NOT use high-pressure or latex foam)
        1 aluminum sill support or 2x4 wood blocking
        15 to 40 feet of interior trim and/or jam extensions
        tape measure
        6-foot level
        square
        hammer
        stapler
        utility knife
        phillips screwdriver
        small flat blade screwdriver
        power drill
        safety goggles
        hinged patio door
        primer and paint

        Step 3: Remove the Old Slider

        You can easily increase your home’s energy efficiency by replacing an old glass slider with new, insulated hinged doors.

        Start by removing the old slider.

        Make sure the opening is plumb and level. To check for plumb, run a beam from a laser level.

        The new door should be 3/4 inch narrower than the opening and 1/2 inch shorter.

        Step 4: Prep the Area

        Install a water resistive barrier at top and bottom of opening.

        Attach sill-flashing tape to sill.

        Attach a sill support to the exterior of the box plate, flush with the subfloor.

        Remove screens, hardware and/or grilles from new door. Do not remove plastic shipping spacers yet; they will keep the door square during installation

        Place three beads of sealant inside the entire opening: one 3/4 inch from the exterior, one where the threshold will go, one 1/4 inch from the exterior edge of the wood blocking.

        Step 5: Install the New Doors

        You will need 2 or 3 people for this step. From the outside, insert the new doors into the opening.

        Set the bottom of doorframe in place first, then tilt top into opening; DO NOT slide; sliding will disturb sealant lines.

        Plumb and square doorframe, locking it into place with shims.

        Fasten nailing fin to opening with 2-inch galvanized roofing nails and remove shipping spacers.

        Insert a 3-inch screw into each hinge, making sure it penetrates structural framing.

        Step 6: Apply Flashing Tape, Insulation and Sealant

        Apply side and top flashing tape and fold down water resistive barrier. Flashing tape should cover entire nailing fin but not extend onto doorframe. To prevent water from getting behind tape, top flashing tape must overlap side tape.

        Insert insulating foam sealant between doorframe and rough opening. DO NOT USE high-pressure or latex foams.

        Install hardware and backer rod.

        Seal outside perimeter with exterior sealant. To stay flexible, sealant should be applied in the shape of an hourglass.

        Finish interior and exterior surfaces with primer and paint.

        Was this project helpful?

        Don't forget: Read comments and leave your own

        Advertisement

        COMMENT ON THIS PROJECT

            

        Sign in

        All fields are required.

        E-mail Address:

        Password:

        Remember me on this computer

        Signing in

        Please enter your email address and we will send your password

        E-mail Address

        Your password has been sent and should arrive in your mailbox very soon.

        Not a member?

        Sign up with DIY Network to share tips with other do-it-yourselfers and comment and ask questions on projects.

        It's free and easy.