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Remove all doors and drawer fronts, then lightly sand all exterior surfaces of cabinets and clean away any grease or oils. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper -- avoid using a power sander, which can warp openings.
Make a "cut list" by measuring the size of each veneer piece needed to cover the existing cabinet. The face frame of the cabinet will be covered with individual strips that have the wood grain running in the same direction as the original cabinet. Make precise cuts to ensure that strips meet tightly.
After the cuts are made, paint the entire cabinet with contact cement and to the back of the veneer pieces. (Contact cement must be applied to both surfaces in order to properly adhere). Paint enough cement so that the veneer pieces look as if they've been quickly dipped in milk.
Apply the veneer to the cabinet, taking your time to align properly -- one the product is pressed into place, it won't budge.
Tip: Wax paper can be place between the cabinet and the veneer to keep the cement from adhering until the veneer is perfectly aligned.
After all veneer has been applied, trim edges of the face frame with the scribe molding to cover any raw edges. Then, trim the cabinet to the wall with the scribe molding. Finally, add the crown molding at the top of the cabinet and the base shoe molding at the floor.
Use the concealed hinges to install the doors. These hinges require that two 35mm holes be bored into the back surface of the door -- and it's better done at the factory, rather than doing it yourself.
Install the drawer front, aligning with doors at top and bottom.
Finally, fill holes and seams with wood filler and clean the cabinets to remove excess wood filler and any other residue.