Brackets will be used to attach the wings to the frame. The amount of brackets you'll need will depend on the height of your headboard. You'll want a bracket every 12 to 18 inches, so probably about 8 to 10 brackets should suffice.
To make the brackets, draw a curved triangular shape on a piece of scrap plywood and cut it out using a jigsaw. Use the first triangle bracket as a template to make the rest.
The spacing between buttons is dependent upon what you find visually appealing and what dimensions work well with the overall dimensions of your headboard. We've created a diamond pattern using 6"-square spacing. Use a square and yardstick to draw the diamond grid on the wood frame.
Pad the headboard with 2"-thick firm density foam. Since the headboard is larger than a typical slab of foam, use foam and fabric spray adhesive to glue multiple pieces of foam together.
Draw the diamond grid again on the foam. Use a hole-saw drill bit to remove the foam over every hole. From the buttons on the outer edges, draw lines straight out to the edges of the foam. In the curved section between the headboard and wings, it may be necessary to reduce the spacing of the buttons since the surface area is reduced with the addition of the 2"-thick padding.
Extend a measuring tape from a hole in the headboard frame, up and over the foam to the opposing hole. Measure the opposite direction as well if your diamond dimensions are not square. Take additional measurements of the buttons that are more closely spaced in the curves between the wings and headboard. We'll use these padded measurements to draw the grid on the fabric. If the seams in your foam are coming apart, reinforce with additional spray adhesive or glue scrap burlap or fabric over the seams to add stability. Be sure to clear the holes of scrap material.
Cover the front face and edges of the headboard with a single layer of stitched Dacron. Stitched Dacron has a cheesecloth backing. Carefully cut the threads and remove the cheesecloth before laying the Dacron in place. Tear away the excess Dacron so that it is even with the back edge of the headboard frame and clear the holes.
Draw the grid on the backside of the fabric using the padded measurements of the diamonds. For large headboards, invisibly connect multiple pieces of fabric together by seaming along the diamond grid. This is called vandyking. Be sure to add 1/2" seam allowance on seamed edges and several extra inches of fabric at the top, bottom, and sides for pulling and stapling to the backside of the headboard.
If you don't have or don't want to spend about $200 on an industrial button machine, contact an upholstery shop to make fabric-covered buttons for you. Use regular buttons, or purchase button kits from a craft store. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for making the buttons. This headboard has 130, size-30 buttons. Button size is primarily based on your preference.
When all of the buttons are made, string one end of a 20"-long piece of button twine through the loop on the back of the button. Then string both ends of twine through the eye of the button needle.
Start at the center-most hole and place the needle through the fabric at the same point. Use the grid drawn on the back of the fabric to determine where to place the needle. Stick the needle through the corresponding hole in the headboard and pull through the button twine.
Pull the button twine as tightly as possible and secure the ends on the backside of the headboard with two staples. To get the buttons deep into the padding, try pushing the buttons down into the holes while you or a helper pulls the slack out of the button twine.
After the first few buttons are tightly stapled in the center of the headboard, use the regulator to tuck under the excess fabric between the buttons. Fold all pleats under towards the floor so crumbs and dirt are not easily caught in the pleats of the fabric.
Working from the center out, continue pulling through buttons and pleating the excess fabric until all buttons are secured.
To get the fabric to lay flat and smooth at the top and bottom of the curve, make small release cuts and staple the excess fabric to the corner brackets attached at the top and bottom of the headboard.
Staple Pli-Grip along the inside of the corner brackets. Place one staple prong through every hole in the feet of the Pli-Grip. Close the Pli-Grip towards the inside of the headboard.
Staple a small piece of fabric around the corners to the back edges of the frame. Smooth the fabric over the Pli-Grip and remove the excess fabric 1/2" beyond the teeth of the Pli-Grip.
Staple the Pli-Grip around the top and front sides of the outside wings. If your wings have sharp corners, cut the Pli-Grip at corners and start a new piece for the adjacent side. Press the teeth down firmly.
Cut a piece of fabric to cover the entire outside wing plus a few inches for pulling and stapling. Staple the back and bottom edges of the fabric to the back and bottom edges of the wings.