How to Build a Heat-Duct Wine Rack
Grab a stack of double walled heat ducts and a MIG welder, and find a place to bring a DIY wine cellar into view.
Surface the 2x6s by running them through a planer. This will skim the boards and give them a fresh surface.
Fit the boards together by interlocking the tongue-and-groove sides. They don’t need to be completely even since the ends will be cut off flush later. To ensure that the boards are tightly compressed during the next steps, lay 2" strips of wood across the top and screw them onto the table surface (In this project, screws were driven into the table top because the table was going to be distressed. Do not use this method if a smooth, clean finish is desired).
Flip the table over to begin making the skirt frame. Rip down 17-1/3" 2x4s for the short end, 53" 2x4s for the long end, and 8-1/2" mitered pieces for the diagonal corners. Create pocket holes with the pocket jig and clamp so that the frame will later screw into the table.
Start assembling the skirt. Nail the pieces together, leaving space at the corner for the 4x4 legs that will be inset 3-1/2 inches from the table corners. The small mitered blocks (or cross braces) will be positioned diagonally from the table corner so it holds the frame pieces together.
Once the frame is assembled, screw the skirt into the table top through the pocket holes with 1-3/4" screws.
With a hand saw, chamfer four inches of one corner of each leg so they fit flush along the cross brace, as well as the rail and stile where they meet. Attach the legs through the cross brace with dowel screws.
Now that the skirt is complete, flip the table over and unscrew the 2" wood strips. Cut the top to the desired length with a circular saw (This project was 72" long by 33-1/2" wide, which allowed for a 3-1/2" overhang on all sides from the skirt).
If you’re going for an "old world" feel with the table, distressing it will give it a great look. Try using various sharp implements that will make random holes and marks on the table, then follow it up with a torch for a charred look.
Mortise the area where the iron bands will fit by making a shallow cut with a circular saw that will be the outline of the bands. Go back with a router and remove the rest of the inlay area.
Bend the ends of the iron bands with locking pliers so they will hug the edges of the tabletop.
Carefully slip the iron pieces on using a hammer and block, gradually pushing it toward the center of the table until it reaches the routed area. Attach them with four carriage bolts.
Now it’s time for finishing touches. Seal the table, sand it down and stain it. Be sure to cover the iron with tape while staining to protect it.