More in Home Improvement
Materials and Tools:
long level or yardstick
spacers for expansion gap
rubber mallet and tapping block
trim or caulk
molding, transition pieces
Locking-laminate can be installed on any level of the home.
Remove baseboards, molding and doors.
Clean the floor, and note direction of joists.
Tip: Nail heads in subfloor will show direction of joists.
Fill dips with self-leveling compound or screw down loose or squeaking boards, as necessary to prepare subfloor.
Check level of floor with long level or yardstick.
Roll out underlayment in abutted rows.
Acclimate flooring to installation area for at least 48 hours prior to installing.
Laminate should run crosswise to the joists. Lay first boards against starting wall, groove side toward wall.
Tip: If you must rip first boards, cut off groove side. If using handsaw, cut flooring with finish side up; if using power saw, cut boards with fine-tooth blade with finish side down. This will minimize damage to the finish.
Use spacers to keep an expansion gap between wall and boards around entire perimeter of floor.
Stagger joints at least 8 inches apart: first board in first row should be full length; first board in second row should be 2/3 length; first board in third row should be 1/3 length.
Join boards by inserting tongue into groove and pushing down until boards lock together.
Tip: Never hammer laminate boards.
Rip final boards to fit.
Replace baseboards and molding and add transition molding as necessary. Nail baseboards and molding to wall, not to laminate.
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