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The light switch and power outlets need to be raised from the wall surface to match the thickness of the siding. To do this, create small 1-1/4" thick frames to box-in each outlet. First, rip 2 x 4s down to 1" x 1-1/4". Next, cut the pieces to form a frame measuring 4" x 5-3/4". Assemble it with a trim nailer.
Turn off the power at the breaker box. Remove the cover plate from the light switch, and back out the two screws that secure it to the electrical box. Cut the first wire, strip and push into the same location on the new switch's quick-connect slot. Do the same for the other wire.
Slip the frame over the switch, followed by an electrical box extender (image 1). Remove the original screws on the top and bottom of the switch. Use 2" screws to attach the frame to the box. Add the new cover plate (image 2). Continue the process for the other outlets, and turn the power on at the breaker box.
For the log siding installation, begin measuring the length of the first couple of logs and note the location of each outlet. Work from the floor to the ceiling to attach the tongue of each board directly to the wall.
Cut the first two boards to length. The boards may need to be notched for the three wall outlets using a jigsaw.
Set the first log in place, resting atop the 1x6 baseboard. Align the trim nailer to the stud lines drawn on the wall and attach the log with 8-penny nails.
Measure the height of the outlet box in the second board and notch it. Set the board atop the first one, overlapping the tongue. Nail in place. From this point upward, the logs are only cut to length, set into place and secured. The last board near the ceiling won't have the tongue to nail into, so it can be secured to the wall at the thinner part of the bottom of the log.
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