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How to Make a Headboard Storage Cabinet

An old shelving unit is reworked to create a wraparound headboard, complete with a storage cabinet.

More in Remodeling

Step 1: Dismantle the Shelving Units

Gently dismantle the shelving. Lay the unit on its side and use a rubber mallet to tap from the inside top to bottom until one side is completely off. Pull out each shelf and set them aside. Repeat this process for the other shelving unit.

Carefully remove any nails that may remain after disassembly.

Cut two of the side uprights to 72" and the top and bottom shelf to 24" using a chop saw.

Step 2: Make the Side Shelving Unit

To make the side shelving unit, use wood glue and a nail gun to assemble the pieces, forming a rectangular box. Use corner clamps to hold the pieces in place while the glue sets.

Measure and cut six shelves using a chop saw to fit into the routed slots in the now assembled unit. Glue the middle shelf tightly in place, and then leave the others to be used as slide-in adjustable shelves.

Measure and cut a 1/4" plywood backer board for the unit.

Step 3: Make the Overhead Shelving Unit

For the overhead shelving unit, cut the remaining two uprights to 62" and two shelves to 12" using a chop saw.

Assemble a rectangular box with wood glue and a nail gun with the shelves on the inside of the uprights. Hold the pieces in place with corner clamps until the glue sets.

Run two shelves over a table saw, cutting them to a new width of 9-1/2". Measure and cut them on a chop saw to fit in the routed slots of the unit.

Glue the shelves into the routed slots -- equally spaced apart.

Measure and cut a 1/4" backer for the overhead unit.

Step 4: Add Picture Frames

Remove the solid backers that came with the three picture frames. Use the backers as a template to cut new ones out of plexiglass.

Cut and place rice paper behind the picture frame glass. Cover the back with the new plexiglass backers.

Step 5: Cut Wood Strips and a Support

Cut six 1/4" x 1/2" x 61" strips of wood using a table saw. These will be used as track guides for the sliding frames.

Cut a 72" tall piece of 1x12 to serve as a leg to the overhead unit.

Cut a 1x4 piece of wood 62" to serves as a support under the overhead unit spanning from the leg over the bed to the shelving unit.

Step 6: Sand, Paint and Add Rope Lights

Fill any imperfections with wood putty, and then sand everything on both units.

Prime and paint the units, shelves, track strips, backers, leg supports and any additional trim.

Attach rope lights to the ceiling of the overhead unit. Using a paddle bit, drill holes in the middle shelves to run the rope light through.

Pre-drill and screw the backers to both units.

Step 7: Position the Strips

Glue and nail one track strip flush with the bottom face of the overhead unit. Glue and nail the second and third strips on the bottom leaving ample space for the frames to slide in between them.

Glue and nail the third (closest to back) strip into the top of the overhead unit directly above the third track on the bottom. Hold two frames side-by-side in this rear track, and then glue and nail the second track strip in place directly above the second strip on the bottom.

Hold the third frame in the front track, and then glue and nail the outer track strip flush with the top unit face.

Step 8: Add Trim and Puck Lights

Measure and cut two trim pieces to match the top and bottom facing tracks. Glue and nail the pieces in place on the vertical faces of the unit.

Pre-drill and screw in the 1x4 wood support under the overhead unit from the inside. Pre-drill and screw the overhead unit to the top right side of the vertical shelving unit. Pre-drill and screw the leg support to the right side of the overhead unit.

Attach puck lights to the underside of the overhead unit, hiding the wires behind the back of the shelving unit.

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