More in Windows Walls and Doors
Use a tape measure to find the center point lengthwise and widthwise in the room (Image 1). Snap cross hairs with the chalk line. Snap one straight line from side to side, and another straight line closer to the side walls. This line will be helpful when lining up the edges of the tiles (Image 2).
Measure and cut the tin on the guillotine. Make sure the edge is against the fence. Finish cutting with tin snips.
Making sure the "male" end of the tile is against the wall, line up the first tin piece on the edge of the ceiling and mark the center of each hole on the "female" edge of the tile. These marks are where the drywall anchors will go (Image 1).
Hammer drywall anchors into the marks and screw them into place (Image 2), then secure the tile to to the ceiling with drywall screws (Image 3).
Slide the second piece against the first, interlocking the male and female flanges. Continue in this same manner for the rest of the row.
After installing the first row of tin tiles, work your way out, snapping the male end of the new tiles into the female end of the installed tiles.
Use a brad nailer to add nails into the opposite flange. This works fine for the rest of the rows. The locking system helps to hold up one end of the tiles.
Take measurements and use a compass to mark the circular hole that needs to be cut for the light (Image 1); use tin snips to cut out the circle.
Tap the joints together with a rubber mallet to lock the mail flanges into the female ones. Add more brad nails to secure the edges (Image 2). Use silicone adhesive on some of the larger tiles to keep them from bowing.