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Lay out a 4 x 8 sheet of tile board face down (Image 1). The waterproof tile board is installed around the dog station to protect the drywall from moisture.
Measure and mark the middle of the sheet. Use a 2 x 4 to extend the line over the entire sheet.
Use a circular saw to cut the tile board in half (Image 2). Be sure to follow the line precisely and slowly through the sheet.
Use half of the board to mark the cut on a piece of 1/2" plywood, and then cut it to size.
Measure and mark the 2x4s that will be used to build the frame, and then use a circular saw to cut them to length. Be sure to cut enough pieces to build support for the frame.
Assemble the 2x4 frame, securing each corner with two 2" drywall screws. Measure and mark the middle of the frame so you'll be able to install the center support in the correct position. Attach with drywall screws.
Using the frame as a template, draw a line around the entire inside of the unit, and then remove the frame and set it aside.
Mark the location of the stud on the inside of where the frame will be mounted.
Use a 2x4 to mark the stud from top to bottom. To find line, use a nail to the other studs inside the frame; use a tape measure, and then mark 16" from either side of the stud to confirm that the stud is really there.
Mount a piece of 2x4 scrap in each corner of the frame (Image 1). Be sure to check each piece to ensure that it's secure.
When all four pieces are mounted, the frame can be completed. Sandwich together the plywood and tile board that was cut earlier, and then align the corners (Image 2). Use drywall screws on the corners and center to secure the layers to the frame.
To mount the faucet, drill two holes into the panel using a hole saw.
Test fit the faucet, and then adjust the holes if necessary. Make sure the connections on the faucet are long enough to fit through the wall.
Wrap Teflon tape around 2" brass nipples, and then install it into both sides of the faucet. Use a pair of slip-joint pliers to tighten them into place.
Install a check valve to prevent the hot water from crossing over into the cold water line. Preassemble them by connecting the check valve to a three inch brass nipple, and then tighten down with a wrench and pliers.
Install the faucet into the wall, and then screw the retaining clamp into place. Lift the wall up and set it so you have access to the back of the panel.
Connect the check valves to the faucet. Connect a brass 90 to each of the nipples coming off the faucet. Connect the check valve assembly to each side making sure it's snug.
Connect a 3' LAV tube to the brass nipple. Hand tighten it into place.
Use a paddle bit to drill through the wall's center support, and then pass the other end of the LAV tube through. Make sure everything is tight.
Connect the faucet to the water lines. If you're not comfortable soldering, use solderless connections that will attach to any type of pipe.
Loosen the end, and then slide the unit over the pipe section. Push the pipe in until it hits the stop, and then tighten it down.
Use 3" screws to secure the panel into the mounting blocks.
Leave extra PEX piping for installing the isolation valves.
From the valves, the piping will run into the water heater. Tap into the hot and cold lines from there.
Note: Be sure to insulate the lines.
If the water heater is gas, turn it to the pilot position. If it's electric, turn it off.
Turn off the water at the main.
Open a hot water faucet to relive any pressure allowing the water heater time to cool.
Insulate the stubs coming out of the panel with pipe insulation, and then install a solderless ball valve onto both lines.
Cut and insulate enough pipe to go from the dog washing station to the water heater.
Connect the lines into the ball valves, and then run the pipe to the water heater. Be careful to not strain the connection.
Once the water heater has cooled, remove the insulation from the water heater's pipes.
Open up the unions that connect the water lines to the water heater.
Use a pipe cutter to break both lines loose.
Install 3/4" to 1/2" T's onto both lines (Image 1). Be sure that they're pointing in the same direction of the new water lines.
When the T's are secure, measure and re-cut the copper pipes that go to the water heater.
Install the copper into the T, and then tighten down the union (Image 2).
Connect the PEX to the solderless fittings.
Bring the lines from the washing station up to the water heater. Ensure that the lines don't touch the flue on the gas water heater.
Use a pair of slip-joint pliers to make sure that all connections are tight.
Use a utility knife to cut a slit in the insulation.
Slide the insulation apart, and then use pipe clamps to secure the lines to the wall.
Turn the water and water heater back on. Check for leaks.
Build the unit on a 2x4 base if it needs to be portable. Make sure it's sturdy enough to support the dog.
To build a gravity drain, clean a threaded PVC 2" reducer, a 3" to 2" reducer, and a 6" piece of 3" PVC pipe. Use PVC cement, and then glue the three pieces together.
Apply a few layers of Teflon tape to a machine-to-hose threaded fitting. Screw it into the threaded end of the PVC drain assembly. Be careful not to strip the threads.
Apply liquid soap on the 3" PVC, and then put it into the rubber drain shoe on the bottom of the sink.
Turn the sink over and put it into its final position before attaching a garden hose to the threaded fitting. Check the local codes to make sure using a garden hose to drain the water out into the yard isn't prohibited.
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