NEEDS A TOPCOAT

Not a great set of instructions and the finish really needs a topcoat to survive. Poly is ok because it's easier, but doesn't compare to a more professional finish.

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Lots of Work! (Buy the Polyshades from Minwax- has the Poly. built in

This is what I wanted for my birthday! It was a big job for my Hubby/Son's and I!
I noticed the comments regarding the unprotected finish of the cabinets.
With the sanding, painting, and glazing of 32 kitchen cabinet doors/ 17 drawers- this was a large job. We bought the Minwax that has the Ployurethane already in it. It is called "Polyshades."
I painted the cabinets a light tannish/ beige and used American Chestnut satin (Polyshade- this has a reddish stain to it.
I will finish the Kitchen today- the day before Thanksgiving!

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Instructions were not complete.

The video shows staining the doors on the cabinets, but if the doors are removed before staining, it is easier to apply and wipe the stain to your desired look. I also found that leaving the cabinets with just the stain finish is not good at all because even after drying for weeks, the stain rubs off around the drawer and door pulls where there is a lot of hand rubbing on the surfaces. With the doors off you can easily spray the doors with a clear polyurathane satin finish which leaves you with a beautiful finish which you can handle all you want without maring the stain. The base cabinets are a cinch finishing with a good camel hair brush. This process needs to be added to your instructions. This is not a labor free process, it is probably more work than the average person wants to indulge in, but we now love the results.

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Glazing cabinets with stain.

I like the looks of the cabinets that I just finished staining. They were white and had aged so the white was turning more to a light cream, but the staining with dark walnut stain gave us the exact look that we wanted. The cabinets had oil paint so I used oil stain. The problem that I have is that the stain after a week of drying will still wipe off when wiped hard with a cloth. I read all of the comments listed but didn't find an answer to my question and the question to many others that were trying this process. Should this process be finished with a clear polyurethane finish or will the stain harden with more drying time and not wipe off with handling?

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Glazing kitchen cabinets

The best thing to do is remove all cabinets and draws before doing this project and to get and old cabinet door and practice before taking on a entire kitchen without experience, also I was told that u need to put a top coat on after the glazing with (polyacrylic or some (clear protector finish

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Not helpful at all

Instead of diy, this site should be called fioy (figure it out yourself your instructions leave a lot to the imagination, and I totally agree that end pictures are a must. The directions are vague and incomplete. This is true for everything I have ever looked up on this site, and I keep hoping that it will change, and I keep looking here, but this is just not a helpful site at all

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A little darker

I think they should be a little darker and I would remove the doors first.

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Not complete instruction

I read all the instructions and had too many questions to attempt doing this myself. It would also be helpful to actually see the finished product! I noticed on a lot of your projects, you do not show the end result which is very helpful to see to know if you like it or not.

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I need some advice

I have a question. My cabinets have been painted several times, and I want to refinish them, do I need to sand them before painting ? I would like to put a glaze on them after painting,does the paint need to be enamel for durabilitliy and will glaze go over enamel , or do i need to use a stain over the paint and wipe it on . I need someone to give me a few hints for this project. I did not like the results of the cabinets she did, the cabinets had too much stain left around the edges for my taste.

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need more advice

THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE STEP BY STEP ARE NOT VERY HELPFUL WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW. YOU ARE NOT TELLING THE COLORS OF THE STAIN YOU ARE USING AND YOU DID NOT SAY WHETHER TO TOP COAT THE CABINETS AFTER THE STAIN HAS DRIED. BEING THAT I WORK IN THIS TYPE OF FIELD I WOULD THINK THAT YOU SHOULD TOP COAT WITH A POLYURETHANE OR A WATER BASED VERSION IF YOU DON'T WANT IT TO YELLOW. IF YOU DON'T TOP COAT AND YOU ARE CLEANING THEM IN THE FUTURE WILL THE STAIN COME OFF? I THINK THAT IF YOU ARE TRYING TO GIVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU SHOULD GIVE ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PEOPLE TRYING TO DO THIS ON THEIR OWN!!!!

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