More in Outdoors
Decide on a pitch for the roof that will look good. Once you know the pitch you want, you can mark where the birds-mouth will be on the rafters. This will be the template for the rafters.
Caulk the gaps in the sheathing and replace the house wrap.
Cut the first set of rafters with the angle measurements. Rafters should be cut 3/4" short to leave room for the ridge board. Notch out a birds-mouth where the rafter will sit on the base.
For the ridge rafter, first measure for the joist hanger. Line up a rafter against the house and then measure 7/8" from the center line to make room for 1-3/4" micro-lam ridge board. Hang your joist hanger and check to make sure you are level.
Put a temporary brace on the center of the front rim board to hold the ridge rafter on the gable end. Center it on the front rim board.
Install the ridge board at the temporary bracing. Start at the cleat end and nail the rafter boards right onto the exposed sheathing using 16-penny nails.
Measure out the spacing for the rest of the rafters. Make the mark on the base of the frame and the ridge board.
The "common rafters" are cut the same as the first rafters. Toe-nail them in place. Finish nailing in the gable end rafters.
Square the box by measuring from corner to corner. It should be an equal measurement in both directions. Attach the bottom of the rafters to the rim by toe-nailing them, using big old pole-barn nails. This will create a bigger hole.
Attach the sub-fascia boards on both sides and then attach your fly rafters -- these are the same as the rest of your rafters but without the birds-mouth.
Put on the outer fascia boards (the 1-by pine that was pre-primed). You can tack up a couple and then scribe and cut out some outer fascia boards for the front peak of the portico and put them up.