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If there is a radiator pipe or any other obstruction that cannot be moved, depending on where it is, measure the board over to the pipe, etc. If the obstruction is near the end, measure from the end of your last board over to the center of the obstruction. The object is to have two planks together and have the hole in the center of the two planks. Once you have the dimension of the first plank and then the next plank, measure over the distance from the wall, and make a mark on both sides of the obstruction.
Once sawed, you can fit the pieces around the obstruction. Use elastic acrylic paste to fill the gap around the hole.
Cut the tongues off the planks that will be closest to the walls, stagger the joints as you go for a natural look and cut planks to fit at the ends of the rows.
Note: Remember to mix up the planks from different packages as you work. This will give you more random grain patterns in the floor and make it look more natural, too. If you have to tap any planks into place, always use the supplied tapping block and tap gently so you don't damage the planks.
When installing pieces around a corner, a jigsaw is the best tool for the job. Just install the pieces round the corners using the tapping block and pull bar.
To install planks around a floor vent, remove the grate without damaging it. You can buy another grate if you damage it, but it is best to work with what you have. The grate can then be moved up the wall.
The final row of planks is installed using the pull bar, and then you can reinstall the heat vents. They are a little higher now than they were before, but it won't hurt anything.
There are two types of transition molding. One (Image 1) is a T-molding and you would use it if one surface of the floor is the same height as the other surface. The other type (Image 2) is a reducer and would be used if there is a step down and one surface is a little lower than the other.
Slide the transition strip into place. Mark it so you can notch it, and it will slide into place.