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Cut 2” x 10” ledger boards with a miter saw.
Place ledger boards along the back wall and nail them into the studs to anchor the new loft.
You will always want to check the walls for wires and pipes in addition to studs using a stud-finder.
Vents and ducts can be easily rerouted.
Screw the post into the bracket.
Set in the next ledgers from the wall to the post, and make sure they are level. Nail the ledgers to the post.
Measure from each wall to find the spot for the post.
Place painter's tape on floor to mark where the bracket will go, as shown above.
Cut out a piece of the carpet so the bracket lies flush on the concrete.
Use a masonry bit to drill into the floor.
Use masonry anchors to drill in the bracket.
A post can be added to an existing floor using a galvanized anchor.
Wrap tape around bit to show how far down it needs to go. Painter's tape works great for this and is easy to remove. Also, use tape as a fan to blow dust away as the drill spins.
Remove the balusters in the existing railing with a crow bar.
Attach ledger boards around the landing.
It's a good idea to double up the rim joists for added strength.
To make sure the rim joists are even all the way around where the new loft will be, use a level.
The crown of a board is the part where the wood bends. To check to see if your board has a crown, look down the edge. You can take the crown out by yourself by using the piece of lumber as a jack.
For added support around the newly installed ledger boards, screw in lag bolts. Lag bolts are strong, and durable.
For an attractive way of giving the joists that will go across the loft something to sit on, add another 2” x 2” ledger board around the bottom of the loft framing.
When working with a crown board, check to see if the board is level by lining it up to another board. It's important to check the crown, because if not, then your flooring will not be level.
A 2” x 2” ledger board can be simply made by ripping a 2” x 4” down the center.
A 2” x 4” piece of lumber is generally closer to 1-3/4 by 3-3/4.
2” x 8” floor joists fit into the frame to support the sheeting for the floor.
The 2” x 8” floor joists go in at 16" on center, which means 16" from the center of one joist to the center of the next one.
Nail the joists in from the side.
Walls are rarely straight, so snap a chalk line along joists to line up the flooring.
Always make sure that the first piece of flooring is squared to the frame because the rest of the sheets depend on it.
Apply construction adhesive before laying down the first 4x8 sheet of OSB decking. Nail down the decking and make sure the tongue and groove feature on the sides fit in to each other.
With the decking installed, wrap the post with 2” x 8”s for looks and added support. Paint the frame and the pieces for the railing. Slide the railing sections in around the loft and secure with screws.
Mark the center of each post and screw the balusters into the top and bottom pieces of the railing.
Using a utility knife with a sharp blade, cut the squares to size.
Use a chalk line to mark where carpet squares will go.
Place the squares into place, and secure them with double-sided tape.
Always cut on the back side of the carpet tiles.
Carpet squares are typically 24"x24".