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Before you start, have the local utility company mark all underground utility lines. Also, be sure to determine the property boundary and the local setback rules.
Once you have determined the property line and legal setback, mark out the location of the fence. Mark the locations of the corner post holes with spray paint. Mark the locations of the remaining line posts, keeping the distance between the posts evenly spaced and under 10 feet.
Using a post hole digger, cut holes 18” to 24” deep and at least 8” in diameter. Add gravel so that the top of each post sits 45" above the ground. Ensure the posts are level and plumb. Mix fast-drying cement according to manufacturer's directions and pour in holes. Let cure for 48 hours.
Attach two rail cups to each post and loosely tighten into place so there is a little play (Image 1). Attach a dome cap to the top of each post. Place a loop cap on top of each line post. Slip three tension bands onto each post and loosely tighten (Image 2). The bolt should face the outside of the fence.
Start at the first post and stretch the mesh up against the post. Starting at the top, weave a tension bar (Image 1) through each "diamond" and through each tension band. The three tension bands should be spaced equally along the height of the post. Roll out the mesh along the outer perimeter of the fence line and temporarily attach wire ties every five or six feet to keep the mesh upright
Stop a few feet short of the fence post to stretch the mesh. This allows room to work the come-along. Run a tension bar down through each "diamond" to the ground. Attach the come-along hook to the tension band's bolt at the terminal post and the other hook to the tension bar (Image 2). Ratchet until the mesh is taut. Once a section has been stretched, cut off the excess length using wire cutters. Repeat until done.
Once all of the mesh has been stretched, go back and place wire ties every five or six feet along the top rail and at least three ties per post (Image 3).
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