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Remove the base molding from the area where the unit will be located.
Mark the wall where the unit will be, ours is 80" wide by 39" tall. To cut out the drywall, use a razor knife to score the lines and then use a drywall saw to cut through.
There were 2x4 studs running down through the hole, so cut those out using a reciprocating saw.
Relocate the wiring. If you feel uncomfortable moving wiring, consult an electrician. The opening is now ready for a cabinet.
After removing the drywall, a 2x4 sill remained at the bottom of the wall. This means the plywood subfloor inside the cabinet area is a 1-1/2" (2x4 thickness) below the top of the 2x4 sill.
Cut the 2x4 skids and use 3" wood screws to screw them into the subfloor. This is done so that when the cabinet slides in the opening, it will be level with the baseboard. The skids will also make it easier to slide in the unit and will add support.
Because the rafters go back at a 30-degree angle, the cabinet was built to match the depth.
For the box, use triangular-shaped sides, one bottom piece, two back pieces and one top piece. Glue all of the pieces together, and then nail them with 2" trim nails and a nail gun.
Add 2" screws in the hidden areas in the back of the unit for additional support.
To finish off the storage cabinet, add the back piece using 1/4" plywood.
The bins are boxes and are made out of 3/4" birch plywood.
You can use a table saw to create the dado cuts in the side pieces of wood that will allow for heavier things to be stored in the bins.
Add a screen molding to cover the exposed plywood edges.
Tip: Be careful not to make the dado cuts too deep.
Put together the cut wood pieces that make up the bins using glue, nails and screws. Put together the side pieces and the back piece.
A piece of 1/4" plywood will slide in the dado groove to create the bottom of the bins. The face of the drawer goes in the same way the sides did.
To paint the top of the drawers, use a flat sponge brush with a handle. It will keep the paint from dripping down the sides on the bins. It's best to do a couple of coats to avoid seeing brush strokes.
Make sure the unit is flush with the wall using a flat surface, and make sure the space between the unit and the wall is the same on both sides.
The unit needs to be screwed into the skids and to the studs on the sides of the cabinet opening using 2-1/2" screws.
Once the plywood is put together to form the main "box" using glue and nails, nail in the plywood shelves.
The hinges for the bookcase are made from 1/2" by 2-1/2" carriage bolts to create an upper and lower pivot point.
Insert 1/2" washers between the main frame and the top and bottom of the bookcase. These will allow the bookcases to turn.
Bolt in the unit through the washers and secure with nuts.
On the opposite side of the hinge, each bookcase needs a 1"x3" wing piece attached. This will make sure there is a tight fit when the bookcases are closed.
Tip: Adding a drop of oil between the washers will make rotating much easier.
Transfer the marks from the existing studs onto the wood to know where to place the trim.
Nail the casing trim in to cover the gap between the new cabinet unit and the existing drywall.
Add hardware, such as drawer pulls and handles, on the bookcases and place all the bins and drawers in the main unit.