By Chris HillMore in Kitchen
While the project as shown is made from poplar, you can build it with any hardwood.
This project also uses pocket-hole joinery. If you're not familiar with it, take a look at the basics.
back legs (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 66-5/8
front legs (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 69-11/16
shelf support rails (7) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 36
back rails (3) – 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 36
top rails (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 36
top (1) – 3/4 x 11-1/4 x 41
top side rails (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 10-1/4
short shelf rail (2) – 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 8-5/16
mid shelf rail (2) – 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 12-7/8
bottom shelf rail (2) – 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 18-15/16
center short slat (1) – 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 11-1/8
center mid slat (1) – 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 15 11/16
center bottom slat (1) – 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 21-3/4
short slats (10) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 11-1/8
mid slats (10) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 15-11/16
bottom slats (10) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 21-3/4
Finished dimensions: 67 3/8" high, 41" wide, 26 5/16" deep
Use the cutting diagrams in Images 1 and 2 as a guide.
Use the layouts in Images 1 and 2 as a guide to measure, mark and cut the front legs to shape using a miter saw.
Use the layouts in Images 3, 4 and 5 to measure, mark and cut the top shelf rail, middle shelf rail and bottom shelf rail to shape using a miter saw. Also, use the layouts as a guide for drilling pocket holes in the parts. Make sure to create one set of the parts as shown, and one set as a mirror image.
Cut the top back rail, top front rail, back rails and shelf rails per the parts list. Try using a stop-block as a setup when cutting these parts. They are all the same length, and a stop-block will make sure the cuts are exactly the same each time.
Drill two pocket holes in each end of the back rails, using the pocket-hole positions on the flat side of the top shelf rail in Image 3 as a guide.
Drill two pocket-hole spaces evenly on both ends of the top back rail, top front rail and shelf support rails.
Position the top shelf rail, middle shelf rail and bottom shelf rail (Image 1) and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. To help position the bottom of the legs flush, clamp a straight piece of scrap or a straightedge to your work surface (Image 2) to use as a guide. Create a second assembly as a mirror image of Image 1.
Position the back rails (Image 1) with the pocket-hole positions, lining up with those on the shelf rails and flush with the back edge of the back legs. Attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.
Position one top rail flush with the top end and back edge of the back legs, and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.
At each of the top shelf rails, middle shelf rails and bottom shelf rails, position a front shelf support rail (Image 2) (11/16 inch from the front point of the side rails and flush with the bottom edge), and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.
Apply glue to the face without pocket holes and the ends of three shelf support rails and position them flush against the bottom edge of the back rails. Attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. Drive #18 x 1-1/4-inch wire brads through the shelf support rails and into the back rails.
Position the remaining shelf support rail (centered between the two shelf support rails) near the bottom shelf rails and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.
Position the top front rail, (align the top corner with the front corner of the front leg) and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.
Use the layout in Image 3 as a guide for measuring, marking and cutting the top side rails. Position the top side rails with the flat end flush against the back edge of the back legs and flush against the top end of the back legs and front legs. Attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch brads (Image 4).
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