Step 1: Sketch a Design

The key to this custom storage bed is tailoring it to the available space and the user's needs. Karl designed the project bed to measure 6' 4" long by 38" wide. Measure the space and sketch out a bed design; graph paper makes it easy to visualize the measurements and keep everything consistent.

Read through all parts of this project while designing and planning your own custom bed. Determine the best size and placement for the under-bed drawers and lazy Susan.

Measure and cut out the side and bottom panels for the bed platform from 3/4" plywood.

Measure and mark the openings in the plywood for the drawer (or drawers) and lazy Susan. Drill a starter hole inside the lines for the openings, then use a jigsaw to cut out the openings.

Step 2: Build the Box

Use wood glue and nails to assemble the sides and bottom. Let the glue dry according to the package instructions.

Measure and cut lengths of 1x2 lumber to match the inside dimensions of the box. Use wood glue and nails to attach these strips around the inside of the platform assembly. They will help support the mattress that will sit on top of the frame. Make sure to measure carefully and keep the strips even -- otherwise, the bed won't be level.

Some of this bed's best features are tucked out of sight: the dividers and storage areas that help keep clothes and toys off the floor. Install a space divider that also supports the mattress, then build a custom toy drawer that rotates on a lazy Susan.

Step 3: Divide the Under-Bed Space

Work with your custom bed design to determine where to divide the under-bed space to accommodate one or more drawers plus the lazy Susan storage section.

Measure and cut two pieces of plywood that will fit snugly against the frame's sides in a "T" shape to divide the space. The pieces should extend all the way to the sides of the frame and come up to the same height as the tops of the 1x2 mattress supports.

Cut small notches in the top corners of the plywood, as needed, to accommodate the 1x2 supports.

Use wood glue and nails to attach the plywood pieces to the platform frame. Make sure to keep the supports level and plumb for the best support.

Step 4: Cut the Wood for the Lazy Susan Drawer

Lay out a piece of 3/4" plywood that will serve as the bottom of the rotating toy drawer. The rotating drawer for the project bed measured 38" in diameter and 7" deep.

Find or cut a piece of scrap wood at least half as long as the diameter of the rotating drawer. This will become a jig for drawing the rounded side of the drawer.

Measure 6" from the edge of the plywood and use a nail to temporarily secure one end of the scrap wood to the plywood. This will be the center of the rotating drawer.

Measure and mark a point half the diameter of the drawer on the scrap wood. Hold a pencil against the scrap wood at this point, and use it to draw a giant half-circle. This will be the rounded side of the rotating drawer.

Remove the jig and cut out the arch with the jigsaw. Trim the flat side of the plywood at the jig mark to leave a perfect half-circle of plywood.

Measure and mark the locations for the compartment dividers in the rotating drawer. Remember, the dividers will come out from the center of the flat side of the drawer like spokes on a wheel, extending out to the curved edge.

Cut pieces of 1" pine to the right size for compartment dividers. Make sure the boards also are the correct width -- the width of the boards will equal the depth/height of the drawer. Don't forget a long, float piece to form the flat side of the drawer; this is the side that will face outward when the drawer rotates closed.

Step 5: Secure the Lazy Susan Boards

Glue and nail the 1" pine boards into place (Image 1), then flip the drawer over and nail the boards from the bottom of the plywood.

The rounded side of the drawer is made from 1/4" plywood. To form the rounded surface, cut the plywood to the right width (matching the depth/height of the drawer) and wet it with water. The plywood will bend more easily if wet.

Use glue and a power screwdriver (or drill with a screwdriver bit) to secure one end of the plywood in place. Line the plywood up flush with the bottom and side of the drawer.

Gently bend the wet plywood around the curve, using glue and nails to secure it in place. Karl nailed the plywood at 1-inch intervals.

Tip: Don't rush or force this part of the project. Take your time, and ease the plywood into place. You may need to re-wet the plywood to help it bend more easily.

Once the plywood is bent and in place, secure the end of the plywood with screws and glue (Image 2).

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    Image 1

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    Image 2

Step 6: Install the Lazy Susan Hardware

The lazy Susan hardware consists of two metal disks sandwiched together with ball bearings in the middle. To install, position the hardware first on the rotating drawer, then on the bed frame, marking and pre-drilling holes through the wood. Attach the hardware with wood screws, attaching the hardware to the drawer first then to the bed frame.

Step 7: Attach Trim to the Drawer and Base

Use a router with a round-over bit to create a decorative profile on the rotating drawer.

Using brad nails, attach decorative trim to the drawer and base. Sand, prime and paint the rotating drawer and base as desired.

Step 8: Build the Headboard

Nothing says "sweet dreams" like a bedtime story. Top off the platform bed project with a house-shaped headboard that doubles as a bookcase for bedtime reads. Create the basic structure, reinforce it with smaller pieces of wood, then add the trim, paint and other decorative touches that give the piece its personality.

The headboard for this custom bed is basically a plywood box with internal supports, shelves and an angled "roof." As with the bed's platform base, sketch out a scale drawing of the headboard before getting started. The headboard should be the same width as the bed -- 38" for the project bed. If the headboard will double as a bookcase, make it 12" deep (a standard shelf depth) and whatever height suits the user.

Cut 3/4" plywood pieces for the front, back, sides and bottom of the headboard box, based on the scale drawing. For the house-shaped bookcase headboard, Karl cut a back piece that combined the rectangular box shape and the triangular "roof" area to back up the entire piece. The front of the box was a rectangle that left the triangular area open to the front for book storage (Image 1).

Cut an additional plywood piece the same size as the bottom of the box. This will serve as the shelf to hold the books.

Step 9: Assemble the Headboard, Shelves and Supports

To assemble the headboard, lay out the back piece, position the sides and attach with wood glue and nails.

Position the bottom of the box so that it sits inside the sides and front; attach to the back and sides with glue and nails (Image 1). Attach the shelf in the same manner.

Cut additional pieces of 3/4" plywood and use them to create internal supports similar to those on the bed platform. Glue and nail these into place, then attach the front of the box with glue and nails. With the front in place, nail into the shelves and supports from the outside of the piece.

Cut pieces of 1/2" plywood to shape the peaked roof. Glue and nail these into place (Image 2).

Cut strips of 1-1/2" x 1/4" pine to the same length as the roof's depth. Position and nail these into place as "shingles" for the roof.

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    Image 1

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    Image 2

Step 10: Finish the Bed

Attach decorative wood trim, then prime and paint the piece. Karl nailed decorative rope trim on all edges of the headboard.

Now it's time to put everything together. Drill holes and use lag bolts to attach the headboard to the bed platform, put the piece in place and add a mattress and bedding. Load up the shelves and rotating drawer, and you have a bed fit for a princess.