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Bathroom Pedestal Sink: Installing the Sink and Glass Block

DIY expert Paul Ryan takes a basic bathroom and converts it into a contemporary bathroom with a pedestal sink and glass block

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Step 1: Install the Sink

To install the sink, first wrap all of the hardware with tape to seal the threads.

Note: There will be an explicit step-by-step manual that will come with any new sink.

Step 2: Secure the Spout

Roll plumber's putty and wrap it around the base of the spout and put it in place. Secure it with a spacer and a joining nut, using an adjustable wrench to tighten it.

Apply plumber's putty to the valve stems too. Be sure to put the cold one on the right; then tighten with a retaining nut

Step 3: Thread the Drain Throat

Wipe off the putty screw and screw on the new handles.

Wipe the putty off the spout. Put plumbers putty on the drain and put it in place. Tip the sink over to work on the drain.

Thread the drain throat in place and tighten the compression nut.

Note: Make sure the drain hole faces the back of the sink.

Step 4: Connect the Valves and the Feed

Connect the lines to the valve stems and tighten with an adjustable wrench. Put the nylon washer and rubber washer into the T-feed and screw it in place.

Connect the feed to the spout and tighten the connections. Put the O-ring in the feed and screw it in.

Step 5: Adjust the Rod

Slide the faucet lift rod through the hole in the link. Slide and clip the link onto the rod with the thumbscrew facing toward the back of the sink.

Put the basin in the stand and move it into place, adjusting it to the center of the drain.

Step 6: Make Marks for Attaching the Anchors and Drill

Mark the slots (Image 1) so you will know where it will attach to the wall. With the markings in place, you are ready to install the anchors.

Drill through on the markings with a 3/8" drill bit and then nail expansion anchors (Image 2) into the hole.

Step 7: Make the Final Connections

Slide the slots on the back of the basin down over the anchors and tighten the nuts until the sink is secure against the wall.

Connect the drain assembly to the trap.

Connect the water supply lines.

Step 8: Set the Window Block into Place

To install the glass-block window, first lay down expansion strips to cushion the window.

Carefully muscle the prefabricated window block into place, adjusting it to fit the space. Be sure to use a level to make sure it's in properly.

Place a shim between the expansion strip and the window block.

Step 9: Adjust the Backer Rod

Place the backer rod between the window and the opening. You can use the blade of a screwdriver to fit it into place. Leave a 3/8" to 1/2" gap to caulk the window into place.

Step 10: Secure the Window

Use a utility knife to cut the shim, and then trim the expansion cushion leaving enough room for caulking.

Use silicone caulk (masonry shade preferred) to secure the window in place -- adhering the glass to the window opening.

After the caulking sets up, use a plastic spoon to finish -- and smooth out -- the edge.

Note: The glass wall will be 24" x 40" and panel anchors will be used to attach the glass tiles.

Step 11: Secure the First Panel Anchor

To build the glass block wall, start by securing the first panel anchor to the floor. Use masonry screws to secure it into place.

Draw a plumb line on the wall and mark off every 8", which is where each glass block will go.

Step 12: Mix the Mortar

Mix the glass-block mortar.

Expert Tip: When setting up glass-block mortar, you want it to set up a bit faster than usual. To accomplish this, use a bit of warm water in the mixture.

Step 13: Lay Out the Block Wall

To start the wall, lay down a bed or mortar on the floor panel anchor, on the block and lay it into place.

Tip: When laying out the block wall, you have a couple of options: 1) If you're going a long distance, you may want to mark every 8" or however long the glass block is OR 2) If you're not going out a long distance, you can just eyeball the job.

Continue laying out the blocks with mortar until the wall is built.

To finish the wall, all you have left is to tool the joints. Ryan suggests that you use the thumbprint test first, which is to place your thumb on the mortar on the bottom block, and if a thumbprint is left, the mortar is set.

Use a barrel jointer to tool the joints working across horizontally, and then vertically.

Step 14: Clean Off the Excess Mortar

When you're finished tooling, clean the excess mortar from the glass with a wet sponge.

Expert Tip: Steel wool can help with cleaning the mortar from the glass blocks when some mortar gets caught in-between the creases.

Once the excess mortar is off, polish the blocks with a soft cloth or towel.

Note: The glass-block wall won't be totally solid for approximately 24 hours.

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