DIY Network

Attaching the Joints Learn how to attach the joints to Freeform Furniture's cocktail table. From "Freeform Furniture" episode DFFF-213

Host Amy Devers attaches the joints to the cocktail table. She does this using the dry clamp technique and then adds glue. Then she cuts all the joinery to attach the legs.

Mortises and tenon joints are used for this woodworking project.

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	Room: Before
	Room: After
	Host Amy Devers creates this modern contemporary...
	cocktail table that defines Freeform Furniture.
	Amy continues the project by attaching the joints.
	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F

Materials:

white oak wood
stop block
straight edge ruler
pencil
clamp
pipe clamps
bar clamps
yellow wood glue
small synthetic brush
cauls
cotton rags
marking gauges
glass insert
scrap blocks of wood
oil-based wipe-on polyurethane
cup
respirator
rubber gloves
prefabricated feet
felt pads

Tools:

combination square
table saw
cross cut sled
tenoning jig
hand plane
bench top mortise
1/2" mortise bit
chisel
mallet
handheld router
random orbital sander
drill
soft, rubber mallet

Attaching the Joints

1. To glue the joints together, you first do a dry clamp. Line up all the parts together and line up all the joints without any glue, and then put all the clamps on just like you will do for the glue up (figure A).

   Tip: Amy recommends doing a dry clamp before every single glue up—even the most simple ones, because surprises always happen when they are least expected.

2. Attach four pipe clamps for lateral pressure (figure B). Pipe clamps are designed to extend across large frames to provide even pressure from the side.

3. Put a bar clamp on each corner.

4. Measure the distance between the corners to make sure you cut the wood and the joints to the exact specs you want.

5. After you remove the clamps, apply yellow wood glue onto each of the cheeks and shoulders.

   Tip: Yellow wood glue is idea for woodworking projects because it dries clear and can be sanded.

6. Press the wood together, shoulder-to-shoulder, cheek-to-cheek, with the corners firmly set. The lap joints are now in position.

7. Add some cauls (in this case scrap pieces of wood) to prevent any possible clamp damage to the wood grain (figure C). The cauls also help to evenly distribute the pressure from the clamps.

8. Re-clamp the frame together just like you did earlier.

9. If the clamps squeeze out quite a bit of excess glue, get rid of it with a cotton rag and then let the piece dry for about four hours.

10. Once the glue is all dry, use a hand-plane and clean off the excess on the corners (figure D). You need for the pieces of wood to appear near seamless. Flatten the area out where the two pieces of wood join together.

11. Always set the blade for a fairly light depth and hold the plane in a firm but relaxed grip to get rid of the overhangs.

12. The joinery now has to be cut so you can attach the legs. You will use a mortise and tenon joint. A mortise is a square hole that is bored into one side to receive a tenon. And a tenon is made by cutting away wood to leave a square or rectangular post on the corresponding side.

13. Start by cutting the mortises. Mark each and every one of those out and you do that with a couple of marking gauges. Set them to the right gauges. On the end is a little round blade and it will score the outside perimeter of the mortise. The incisions you carve into the piece with the marking gauge will act as cut lines.

14. Trace inside the score mark so you can see it once you get to the mortising machine.

15. When you are ready to cut the mortises, line up on a bench top mortiser (figure E), which is a tool designed specifically for cutting this type of joinery.

16. Use a 1/2" mortising bit to bore out the hole. Make sure not to press the bit all the way through the wood because you only need to leave just enough space for the mortise to receive the tenon. The mortising also creates a flat-bottom hole, which will allow for a snug fit when the tenons are all cut and ready to be inserted.

17. Clean them up on the inside with a chisel and a mallet.

18. Start by cutting the shoulders on the table saw.

19. Cut the four legs for the cocktail table down to size. Place the wood on the cross-cut sled and start to cut the tenons. Each cut should have a 3/4" depth.

20. Once the shoulders are cut, you can get to work on cutting the cheeks. Set the blade height to the top of the shoulder (figure F) and then put it on the jig and set it to the right width. Setting the jig to the exact width and height is really important because you want to cut off just enough wood for the tenons to fit into the mortises.

21. When you cut the tenons, leave just a little bit of extra so you can shave that off later for a snug fit inside the mortise.

    Note: If you don't already have a tenoning jig, you can buy one at any good woodworking store, or make your own.

22. Once all the tenons are cut, test fit each leg into the mortises.

RESOURCES :

Festool
Website: www.festoolusa.com

Stanley Tools Product Group
Website: www.stanleytools.com

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, Inc.
Website: www.lie-nielsen.com

WMH Tool Group
Website: www.wmhtoolgroup.com

Adhesives, Abrasives and Safety Equipment
3M
The 3M Company
Website: www.3m.com

Power Tools
Porter Cable Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com

Gladiator GarageWorks
Website: gladiatorgarageworks.com

Hand Tools
Garrett Wade Co., Inc.
Website: www.garrettwade.com

The Peck Tool Company
Website: www.pecktool.com

Biesemeyer
Website: www.biesemeyer.com

Saw Blades
Forrest Manufacturing Company
Website: www.vacupress.com

Jogensen Adjustable Clamp Company
Website: www.adjustableclamp.com

Klein Tools
Website: www.kleintools.com

Power Tool Accessories
Woodcraft
Website: www.woodcraft.com

Ulmia GmbH
Website: www.ulmia.de

Shop Equipment
Eagle Manufacturing Company
Website: www.eagle-mfg.com

Delta Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com

MacBeath Hardwood
Website: www.macbeath.com

IMS Metal
Industrial Metal Supply Company
Website: www.imsmetals.com