DIY Network

Nightstand Base and Legs Learn how to build the base and attach the legs of the nightstand. From "Freeform Furniture" episode DFFF-205

Host Amy Devers starts the nightstand by building the base. She uses a 3/4" square steel tube for the legs and cuts the tube to the correct sizes and then welds them together. She uses filler rod to fill in and join the pieces of steel. After the filler rod has been sanded down, she secures the tables top and uses stretchers to stabilize the table.

After everything is welded there are some warping problems, so Amy has to tweak everything back into position.

advertisement

	Amy creates this unique nightstand a small girl would love in her room...
	with luminescent cherry blossoms that give a soft glow in the night.
	The previous nightstand—or lack thereof—just didn't cut the mustard.
	The project begins by creating the metal frame and legs.

Materials:

3/4" square steel tube
flat bar
long sleeves
ear plugs
face shield
stretchers
silkscreen
pattern
solvent
marker—fine tip
knife-cut stencil film
tape
ink
squeegee
cotton cloth
nail polish
paintbrush
foil tape
phosphorescent ink
1/4" glass
pink phosphorescent
powder coat
pink powder
table feet

Tools:

disc sander
C-clamps
weld
chop saw
80-grit grinding disc
90-degree hand clamp
filler rod
magnetic welding clamps
angle grinder
Exacto knife
circle template
electrostatic spray gun
walk-in curing oven

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	A close-up view of Amy's beautiful nightstand

Nightstand Base and Legs

1. Begin work on the nightstand by working on the base. Use a 3/4" square steel tube (figure A) for the legs of the nightstand.

   Note: Tube stock is used not only because it is lighter than if it were solid, but because tubes in general are more rigid than their solid counterpart because there is more surface area. It costs approximately $35 for 15 feet, and can be purchased at any industrial metal supplier.

2. The ends of the tubes need to be deburred and that is done on the disc sander. Place the tip of each leg on the bed of the metal disc sander (figure B), slowly ease it along the sander and smooth it around the sander. You don't want to take off too much at the risk of making one of the legs too short.

3. Before welding the legs, you need to weld the two little pieces of flat bar together at a 90-degree angle. That is going to form the frame that holds the glass on top.

   Note: The metal that is extruded at a 90-degree angle is called angle iron (figure C).

4. Once the tubes are locked into a 90-degree clamp, secure the piece to the table with two C-clamps.

   Safety Alert: Before welding, put on safety gear to protect yourself—long sleeves, ear plugs and a face shield.

5. For this weld you need to create a tack, or spot weld. It is used specifically to attach two pieces of metal together.

   Safety Alert: As with any kind of welding, it is important to never look directly at the hot weld with the naked eye because it can damage your vision.

6. Once they are welded together, grind off the tack weld so they are smooth and flush. Then, use a chop saw to cut them off at a 45-degree angle so you can put all four of them together as a square.

   Note: When selecting the coarseness or fineness of the grit on the grinder, it is important to match the right grit to the material you are working on. As a rule, the higher the grit number, the finer the grinds.

7. An 80-grit grinding disc is coarse enough to take down the metal welds. Keep a steady hand while grinding, and remain focused.

8. Cut in the 45-degree angles. Slide in the angle iron and make the cuts. Deburr it just like you did with the steel tubing.

9. Secure the metal with the 90-degree hand-held clamp (figure D) and make sure there are no gaps where the two pieces of metal meet.

10. Begin to weld. Filler rod is the semi-solid metal melted to fill in or join the two pieces of metal. What is crucial to making a good weld is laying down just the right amount of filler. Use the filler rod to carefully distribute the filler where you need it.

11. Once the tabletop is welded together, secure it to the table with a couple of magnetic welding clamps (figure E) and swipe the angle grinder across those welds to get them flush with the surface of the metal.

12. After everything is welded into position, weld some stretchers on all the way around. Grind those welds on so they are smooth.

13. Once you secure the tabletop into a 90-degree clamp, you can start giving the table some legs to stand on.

    Note: Once the legs are on, the table can be a bit spindly. It is not uncommon to get warping when you do this kind of welding. Putting stretchers on will stabilize the table.

14. Once the bar is lined up and clamped across two of the legs, you can start welding it to the base. You only need two stretchers to keep the table steady and sturdy on all four sides.

15. Take the angle grinder and grind down the last welds.

RESOURCES :

Festool
Website: www.festoolusa.com

Stanley Tools Product Group
Website: www.stanleytools.com

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, Inc.
Website: www.lie-nielsen.com

Power Tools
Porter Cable Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com

Gladiator GarageWorks
Website: gladiatorgarageworks.com

Hand Tools
Garrett Wade Co., Inc.
Website: www.garrettwade.com

The Peck Tool Company
Website: www.pecktool.com

Biesemeyer
Website: www.biesemeyer.com

Saw Blades
Forrest Manufacturing Company
Website: www.vacupress.com

Jogensen Adjustable Clamp Company
Website: www.adjustableclamp.com

Adhesives, Abrasives and Safety Equipment
The 3M Company
Website: www.3m.com

Klein Tools
Website: www.kleintools.com

Power Tool Accessories
Woodcraft
Website: www.woodcraft.com

Ulmia GmbH
Website: www.ulmia.de

Shop Equipment
Eagle Manufacturing Company
Website: www.eagle-mfg.com

Delta Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com

WMH Tool Group
Website: www.whmtoolgroup.com

MacBeath Hardwood
Website: www.macbeath.com