DIY Network

Modern Cocktail Table: Curved Legs and Top From "Wood Works" episode WWK-713

The sleek jarrah base of this table, featuring legs and frame with subtle curves, supports contrasting feet frame of wenge and a highly figured olive-wood veneer.

NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates a contemporary cocktail table with a stylized veneer top. In this third segment, work on the table continues with the curved legs and tabletop.

Tools and materials used in this episode:

Olive wood stock
Wenge stock
Jarrah stock
Baltic birch plywood for top substrate
Wooden dowels
MDF for templates
Table saw
Multi-router
Band saw
Jointer
Planer
Drum sander
Table router
Multi router
Vacuum press
Hand drill
Hand scraper
Clamps
Belt clamp
Bricks
Yellow woodworker's glue
Plastic resin glue
Blue tape
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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Figure A

Curved Legs

As seen on the prototype, two curves are cut into each leg -- one consisting of two cuts on the outside edges, and one consisting of two cuts along the inside edges (figure A). To create the curved legs, a second template and custom jig is created. A specialized jig holds the stock in place as the cuts are made. Recall that earlier, the legs stock was cut slightly long. This extra length provides extra stock for the jig to grab onto in order to secure the piece. One cut is made, then clamps are reversed to make the cut on the other side.

• Using the curved base of the jig as a guide, and with the stock clamped in place, trace on the lines for the outside curves first (figure B).

• Rotate the stock and draw on the second outside curve.

• Take the stock to the band saw and observe the orientation of the lines. You'll need to be sure to identify which line to cut first in order to avoid obscuring the other line. Be sure to first cut the one curve that will leave the second line intact.

• Then rotate the stock and make the second cut to create the other outside curve (figure C).

  Figure B

  Figure C

  
  

  
  
  

• Place the stock back in the jig and rout it flush with the template (figure D) -- first one side, then the other.

• Flip the clamps to the other side -- which is cut to match the inside curve -- and attach the stock.

• Trace out the first inside curve with a pencil.

  Tip: A pencil that has been band-sawed flat will help ensure that the pencil point will be on the same plane as the template (figure E).

• Rotate the stock and trace on the second inside curve.

  Figure D

  Figure E

  
  

  
  
  

• Put a chalk-mark on the stock to indicate a stop mark.
  
  
• Band-saw the first inside curve. As before, first cut the side that will leave the second pencil-line intact.

• Rotate the stock and make the second cut (figure F).

• Before you flush-trim, it's a good idea to remove most of the excess stock -- primarily the area around the foot (figure G).

  Figure F

  Figure G

  
  

  Figure H

  
  
  

• Cutting away the extra stock in this way leaves enough room for the clamp but allows enough clearance for the router bit as you rout around the foot (figure H).
  
  
• Flush-trim both sides at the router table.

• Now you can cut the tenon stock out of maple -- both the large and small sizes.
  

  
  
  

• You can now cut the legs to final size. To calculate the exact size, put in the tenons, dry-fit the apron and scribe a line at the top (figure I).
  
  
• For the feet, go 1-1/2" down from the wenge joint line and make a chalk mark.

• Cut the legs to final size at the table saw (figure J). For accuracy, clamp the square stock at the top and bottom of the leg to the fence of the cross-cut sled.

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  
  

• Now conduct a dry-fit of the legs and aprons, holding it square with a band clamp (figure K).
  
  
• Measure the aprons for the rabbet that will hold the top.

• Cut in the rabbet at the table saw. The rabbet should be cut 1/2" x 1/2" (figure L).

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  	Figure M
  	Figure N

  
  
  

• At the drill press, notch out the inside corner of each leg using a 1/2" Forstner bit. Drill the notch to a depth of 3/8". This notch will connect to the rabbets on the apron.
  
  
• To glue up the base, apply yellow woodworker's glue to the mortises and tenons.

• First, glue the two sides separately (figure M) and allow them to cure.

• Then attach the two glued up sides using the remaining aprons. Use a band-clamp to pull the assembly together, then use bar-clamps to pull it tight (figure N).

• Once the base dries, chisel the corners square.

• Use a hand plane to shape the transition between the apron and the curve in the legs.
  

  
  

• First, run both sides of the top through the drum sander (figure O).
  
  
• At the band saw, trim off the excess glue on one side.

• With the one trimmed side against the fence, trim the other sides to size at the table saw (figure P). Be sure to trim off each side equally to keep the book-match centered.

  Figure O

  Figure P

  
  

  	Figure Q
  	Figure R
  	Figure S

  
  
  

• Measure and cut four 1/8" bands of wenge.
  
  
• Use a mitering jig at the table saw to miter cut the ends of each band. The lengths of the bands should be based on the actual dimensions of the glued-up base.

• Once miter-cut, use yellow glue to attach the bands to the edges of the top. Pull the banding tight with a band-clamp (figure Q).

• Clamp the assembly (figure R), and allow several hours for the glue to cure.

• Once the glue has dried, the final step with the top is to even out the wenge banding with the olive wood. Use a hand scraper (figure S) and sandpaper to give the top a smooth finish.

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com