DIY Network

Modern Cocktail Table: Leg Stock, Aprons and Joinery From "Wood Works" episode WWK-713

A contemporary cocktail table with distinctive olive-wood veneer.

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In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates a contemporary cocktail table with a stylized veneer top. In this second segment, work on the table continues with the leg stock, aprons and joinery for the frame.

Tools and materials used in this episode:

Olive wood stock
Wenge stock
Jarrah stock
Baltic birch plywood for top substrate
Wooden dowels
MDF for templates
Table saw
Multi-router
Band saw
Jointer
Planer
Drum sander
Table router
Multi router
Vacuum press
Hand drill
Hand scraper
Clamps
Belt clamp
Bricks
Yellow woodworker's glue
Plastic resin glue
Blue tape
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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Figure A

Leg Stock, Aprons and Joinery

David pre-cut the stock for the legs, feet and aprons -- all cut to 1-3/4" square (figure A). The leg stock was cut to 22" long, slightly longer than needed. The extra length will be useful when cutting the curves later. The apron stock was cut to 15" long. The wenge stock for the feet was cut to 5" long.

The pieces were cut from stock that had been riff sawn. Riff-sawn stock, when used in the proper orientation, will allow the grain to "flow" with the curves that will be cut in the legs.

• Most wood is cut from the tree in horizontal cuts and is termed flat-sawn. Boards cut in this way (figure B) will produce a "cathedral" type grain-pattern.
  
• The end-grain of quarter-sawn wood runs perpendicular to the face (figure C).
  
• A riff cut results in a diagonal end-grain so that the grain pattern is similar on all four sides of the stock (figure D). Wood cut in this way is ideal for table legs in which curves will be cut.

  Figure B

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

  
  
  

• The wenge feet are attached to the jarrah legs using a wood dowel. Mark and drill matching offset holes in each piece. On the wenge, offset the holes 5/8", centered off the back sides, to allow for the stock that will be removed when the curves are cut.

• Drill the matching holes on the leg stock (figure E). The holes should be drilled 3/4" deep, and the diameter should be 3/8".

  
  

• Apply yellow glue into the holes, and onto the wood dowels.

• Insert the dowel (figure F).

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

  Figure G

  
  

• Clamp the legs and feet tightly together (figure G) and allow the glue to dry.

• Once the glue has dried, remove the clamps and remove any excess glue by hand-scraping and sanding.

• With the feet and legs glued together, work can begin on the joinery.
  

  
  

• The legs and aprons are joined using mortise and loose-tenon joinery. Each side will have two mortises -- a large one and a smaller one that will clear the rabbet that will be cut later (figure H). When joining stock this thick, a stronger joint can be made with two thinner tenons as opposed to one thick one.
  
  
• Lay out the mortises on the legs. The larger mortise is 5/16" from the outside edge, and 5/16" W by 1-1/4" L. Leave a gap of 5/16" between, and mark in the smaller mortise. This one is 5/16" W by 5/8" L (figure I). The matching mortises on the aprons are spaced and sized the same.

  Figure H

  Figure I

  
  

  
  
  

• Using the multi-router, start by cutting the small mortises -- each 1/2" deep. Cut all of the small mortises on the legs and aprons.

• Then reset the multi-router (figure J) to cut all of the long mortises. The longer mortises should be 7/8" deep.

• With the mortises all cut (figure K), work can begin on shaping the elements.

  Figure J

  Figure K

  
  

  
  
  

• Begin the shaping of the elements with the aprons. As seen on the prototype, the apron has a sleek curve (figure L) that complements the curves of the leg. To make the curve, a flexible piece of wood was used to trace out an aesthetically pleasing curve onto a piece of 1/8" masonite. That piece was used to create a template and jig to hold the apron stock in place (figure M).

  Figure L

  Figure M

  
  

  
  
  

• The jig, with its clamps and stop (figure N), holds the stock securely in alignment so that the lines are consistent from one apron to another.

• Flip the jig over to trace on the curve. Then, at the band saw, cut out the bulk of the curve, leaving about 1/16" outside the line (figure O).

  Figure N

  Figure O

  
  

  	Figure P
  	Figure Q

  
  

• Place the stock back into the jig, secure it (figure P), and flush-trim the edges at the table router using a flush-trim bit (figure Q).

• Repeat the process for all four aprons.

• Scrape and sand the cut aprons to 220-grit.

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com