DIY Network

Sculpted Bowl Table: Legs and Tenons From "Wood Works" episode WWK-712

The solid walnut legs are attached to the integral tenons. The tenons are specially cut to accommodate the 7-degree angle of the legs.

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In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates "bowl table" out of solid maple. In this third segment, work on the table continues with the legs and tenons.

Materials and tools used in this project:

Raw maple stock
Pernambuco stock for wedges
Plywood and MDF for jigs
Table saw
Jig saw
Band saw
Jointer
Power planer
Drum sander
Table router
Plunge router
Random orbital sander
Cordless drill
Brad nailer
Hand scraper
Gooseneck scraper
Hand plane
Spoke shave
Flexible hand saw
Sharp chisel
Pattern-maker's rasp
Wood moisture meter
Sandpaper
Clamps
Yellow woodworker's glue
Plastic resin-glue
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Chalk
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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Figure A

Legs and Tenons

With the mortises already cut in the top, work can begin on the tenons that will join the legs to the top. Lay out the tenons at the top of each leg -- two tenons per leg at 3-1/2" L x 3/4" W, separated by 3/4" between them. There should be be a 7-degree angle, and the tenons should be 2-3/16" long (figure A), leaving some excess so that they can be scraped flush with the top once installed.

• Set the blade of the table saw to 7 degrees and cut the shoulders on the front and back sides of the stock.

• Return the blade to 0 degrees, and cut the side shoulders using the miter-gauge set at 7 degrees, resulting in a kerf around three sides of the stock (figure B).

• Flip the stock over and cut the other side.

• Add an extended fence to the table saw and set the stop upright to make a ripping cut on the back side (figure C).

  Figure B

  Figure C

  
  

  
  

• On the second pass, flip the stock, and raise the blade 1/16" to compensate for the 7-degree angle (figure D).

• Keeping the leg vertical, make the cuts to remove the sides of the shoulders. These are the final cuts that define the two tenons. Make the outside cuts first. Then, for the center, cut the two borders, then use the blade to "nibble" out the rest.

• Use a sharp chisel to clean up the edges (figure E).

  Figure D

  Figure E

  
  

  
  

• Take the legs to the band saw and make two kerf-cuts in each tenon (figure F). These cuts in the tenons will accommodate the pernambuco wedges.

• To secure each of the integral tenons in the mortise, pernambuco wedges will be used later. When the wedges are tapped in, they will drive the two ends of the tenon into the mortises (figure G), locking the legs to the table. (The wedges will be left slightly proud, then flushed level with the tabletop.)

  Figure F

  Figure G

  
  

  
  

• Before gluing the legs in place, some final shaping should be done. David created a template from MDF to guide the cuts on both sides. The curves starts at the bottom and ends about 3/8" from the tenons. A subtle curve will also be added to the edges of the legs, just as was done with the top.

• The curved template is referenced off the center line. Position the template and trace the curve. Flip the template, align it to the center-line again, and trace the curve on the opposite side (figure H).

• While the stock is still straight, cut in the matching 7-degree angle on the foot, cutting it to final length.

• Tilt the bed of the band saw to 15 degrees (to match the cut made on the top) and cut out the curve (figure I).

  Figure H

  Figure I

  
  

  
  

• At the router table, use the 1" radius bit to round over the edges (figure J), just as was done with the top.

• At the workbench, use a spoke-shave to blend the cuts from the table saw and router.

• Follow up with an orbital sander to smooth out the transition (figure K).

  Figure J

  Figure K

  
  

  	Figure L
  	Figure M
  	Figure N

  
  

• Dry-fit the legs in the top, and make any final adjustments to the fit.

• With the tabletop clamped to the workbench, apply slow-setting plastic-resin glue to the tenons and to the mortises in the top (figure L).

• Insert the tenons into the mortises, and clamp the legs in place.

• With the legs clamped into position, apply a small amount of glue to the pernambuco wedges and tap them into the kerfs cut in the tenons (figures M and N). Tap in the wedges evenly -- on one side and then the other -- so that the width of the wedges will be the same.

• Allow the slow-setting glue to cure overnight to reach maximum strength.

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com