DIY Network

Sculpted Bowl Table: Bowl and Mortises From "Wood Works" episode WWK-712

The top of this solid maple table is highlighted with a 12" sculpted bowl.

NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

NOTE: Video excerpt included below.

In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates "bowl table" out of solid maple. In this second segment, the use of a custom jig for cutting the bowl shape is demonstrated, and work begins on the mortises for the table's joinery.

Materials and tools used in this project:

Raw maple stock
Pernambuco stock for wedges
Plywood and MDF for jigs
Table saw
Jig saw
Band saw
Jointer
Power planer
Drum sander
Table router
Plunge router
Random orbital sander
Cordless drill
Brad nailer
Hand scraper
Gooseneck scraper
Hand plane
Spoke shave
Flexible hand saw
Sharp chisel
Pattern-maker's rasp
Wood moisture meter
Sandpaper
Clamps
Yellow woodworker's glue
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Chalk
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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	Figure A
	Figure B

Sculpting the Bowl

With the custom jig complete, work can begin sculpting the decorative bowl-shape in the top of the maple table.

• Since the leg stock is the same thickness as the top, it can be used to level out the jig and circular guide. Clamp the MDF jig securely to the top and the torsion box or work table, lining it up with the center-lines marked out earlier.

• The jig can now be placed inside the circle in preparation for slowly cutting out the bowl.

• To achieve the desired maximum depth of 1-1/2", six passes will be made around the circle, each time lowering the bit 1/4"

• Use a 1/2" 2-flute carbide router-bit that has a 2" cutting length (figure A).

• Work in a clockwise direction, routing from the outside to the center (figure B).
  

  
  

• After each complete pass around the circle, adjust the depth of the bit by 1/4".

• Start at the top, and only cut to the halfway point (figure C). If you were to continue up the arc to the other side, the router bit would be working against the grain, making a climb cut, and could lunge in the opposite direction. Simply work carefully around the circle.

• After six passes around the circle, confirm that the desired depth of 1-1/2" has been achieved (figure D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• Use a sharp gooseneck scraper to remove the marks left by the router bit (figure E).

• Then use 120-grit sandpaper, wrapped around a flexible pad, to further smooth the inside shape of the bowl (figure F).

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

  	Figure G
  	Figure H (Click on the icon below to watch a video on how to create and use the custom jig and create the mortises for the joinery.)
  	Media Watch the Video

To help cut the mortises, yet another custom jig was created (figure H). The jig is made from 3/4" plywood. Like the bowl jig, this one was made specifically to fit the router. It allows the router to slide easily in two directions. A wood spacer is used to adjust the base accordingly and keep it centered as each mortise is cut. Also, because the legs are designed to angle out at 7 degrees, an 7-degree angled shim is cut from wood and taped to the base of the router.

• Before beginning to cut the joinery, set a piece of scrap wood on the work surface to prevent wood tear-out and to protect the work surface.

• Once the mortising jig is aligned and clamped securely to the stock, position base of the router in the jig with the spacer and carefully cut the first mortise 1/4-inch at a time (figure I). Realign the spacer and cut the second mortise.

• Next, widen the mortises by tracing on an additional line 1/16" (figure J). Then chisel the mortises square to the line. The objective here is to angle the walls of the mortises so that they taper toward the bottom. The additional room in each mortise will allow the addition of decorative wedges that will lock the tenons in place.

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  	Figure K
  	Figure L
  	Figure M

  
  

• With the mortises cut, the shaping of the top can begin. At the table saw, with the blade set to 15 degrees, make a cut along the edge, leaving a small flat facet about 3/16" (figure K).

• At the router table, use a 1" radius bit to round over the edges (figure L).

• Use a hand-plane to blend the two cuts. The objective is to remove any marks left by the saw and router bit, hand-shape the sides and make them look left machine.

• Using a random orbital sander (figure M), start with 120-grit sandpaper, then move up to 220-grit and finish off the top.

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com