| Sculpted Maple Bowl-Table: Raw-Stock Prep and Custom Bowl Jig |
From "Wood Works" episode WWK-712 |
|
|
 |

 This contemporary table, with sculpted bowl top, was made from a single slab of curly maple.
|
|  |

 The legs of the table are joined to the top with integral tenons, strengthened with pernambuco wedges that also add a decorative touch.
|
|
NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.NOTE: Video excerpt included below. In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates "bowl table" out of solid maple. The table is an artist's woodworking signature piece -- a stunning table with a sculpted bowl-like center. Crafted from three raw slabs of figured maple, the striking simplicity of this exotic and stately looking piece is enhanced by the sculpted bowl center. In this first segment, the maple stock is prepped and a custom jig is built for hollowing out the bowl center. To begin, a thick slab of maple with curly figure and wavy grain is sculpted with a special jig then carefully hollowed out with a plunge router and a special custom jig. The hollow center serves as a built-in entertainment bowl. Two legs are joined with integral tenons. Pernambuco wedges secure the legs and add a decorative touch that accentuates the highly figured grain of the maple. Materials and tools used in this project: Raw maple stock Pernambuco stock for wedges Plywood and MDF for jigs Table saw Jig saw Band saw Jointer Power planer Drum sander Table router Plunge router Random orbital sander Cordless drill Brad nailer Hand scraper Gooseneck scraper Hand plane Spoke shave Flexible hand saw Sharp chisel Pattern-maker's rasp Wood moisture meter Sandpaper Clamps Yellow woodworker's glue Straight-edge Carpenter's pencil Chalk Safety glasses or goggles . Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Raw-Stock Prep David began this project with a large slab of maple that had been drying in his wood shed for more than six years (figure A).. The moisture-meter reading for this piece read 10 percent, indicating that it was dry enough for cutting and sculpting. The piece was highly figured, but also some glaring flaws. Fortunately, the piece was large enough to work around the flaws.
- Begin by marking out the sections and rough-cutting the three planks from the slab using a jig saw.
- At the band saw, start the milling process by cutting the rough material off one side of all the pieces, sawing one side straight (figure B).
Once the pieces have all been cut, joint the edges flat (figure C).At the table saw, cut the planks to rough dimension by ripping the remaining rough edge (figure D).
The top-piece width should measure a little over 14" wide, while the leg pieces should measure a little over 11-3/4" (figure E).Then use the jointer to level the faces of all three planks (figure F).
Plane the two leg planks to get the opposing sides even and parallel (figure G). Both of these planks should be close to 2" thick.Since the top was too wide for the planer, David passed it through the drum sander to level the opposite face (figure H).
At the table saw, cut the top plank to final length at 45" long. Then cut the two leg planks oversized (figure I), leaving extra stock to make the integral-tenon joinery. (After the joinery is cut, the legs will be cut to final length.)Use a straight-edge rule to measure and mark center-lines on each of the two legs (figure J) and the top plank.
Custom Bowl-JigWith the stock milled, work can begin hollowing out the bowl in the tabletop. To create a symmetrical bowl shape, David created a special jig from plywood for use with a hand-held router. The plywood jig works in conjunction with a base of MDF. The jig is designed to cradle the router as it makes cuts along the arc, from the edge to the center (figure K). The jig also rotates around the circle as it makes the cuts inside the MDF base. The goal is to create a bowl with a 12" diameter (figure L). Here are the basic steps for building the jig.
 |

 Figure M (Click the icon below to watch a video of how to build the bowl jig.)
|
|
 |
|
- Mark out center lines on a piece of MDF cut 30" square.
- Use a large compass to draw circle with 21" diameter. (The exact size of the circle was determined as the result of considerable trial and error. Ultimately it was determined that the larger circle, combined with the jig, would cut out a perfect 12" bowl.)
- Use a hand-drill to make a hole large enough to accommodate a jig-saw blade.
- Cut out the 21" circle with the jig saw.
- With the MDF placed on a sheet of 1/2" plywood, trace out another 21" circle (figure M).
- Mark out the matching center lines.
- To accommodate the plunge router, trace out the width of the router base, and draw parallel lines.
- At the table saw, cut out the section of plywood representing the router base. (Save the center waste you cut out.)
- Use the jig saw to cut out the two remaining half-circles.
- Smooth the edges of the semi-circular pieces with a pattern-maker's rasp.
- Lay out the marks for the vertical curved rails that will support the router. They measure 19" L x 5-5/8" H. Since the rails are curved in the same arc as the semicircles already cut, use one as a template to trace out the curves.
- At the table saw, rip the plywood rail-stock to width. Then, using the cross-cut sled, cut it to length.
- At the band saw, cut out the inside arcs of the rail.
- Smooth the edges of the rail with a rasp.
- At the router table, bevel the inside edges with a 45-degree router bit. This bevel will help reduce friction as the router travels along the edges of the rail.
- At the band saw, cut out two more arcs from 3/4" ply, but with a radius 1" smaller than the first. These rails should be the same length, but a minimum of 6-5/8" high. They will be glued to the sides to trap the router squarely on the rails.
- Use the center-strip waste you cut off earlier, now cutting it into two pieces to make the ends of the jig.
- Measure and mark the center-point, and drill a 1-1/2" hole there using a Forstner bit.
- At the table saw cut the board in half, and to final size, yielding two pieces that are 5-5/8" x 3-3/8". The bottom holes on these end pieces will allow sawdust to escape.
To assemble the jig, set the ends between the two plywood half-circles. Join them with yellow glue and secure them with nails using a brad nailer. Use glue to attach the half-circles to the base of the outer rails using yellow glue and nails. Finally, attach the two outside arcs, with smaller radius, for support (figure N). The jig is now ready for use in cutting out the bowl in the top of the table. Tip: Before using the jig, it's a good idea to wax all of the baring surfaces on the bottom and edges of the circle, and the surfaces where the router will rest. This will ensure smooth movement as you hollow out the bowl.
RESOURCES :
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
|