WOODWORKING Index
Antiques
Bedroom
Seating
Chests
Decorative-Accent Furnishings
Shelves & Cabinets
Tables
Products
Woodworking Shop
Other

BEST OF WOODWORKING
Mold Quiz
Home Safety
Room Planner
Pet Care Guide
Weekend Projects
DIY to the Rescue
Sparkling Solutions
Organize Your Home
Ultimate Media Room
Picture Perfect Parties
Queen of Clean

SPONSOR LINKS

  • Walnut-Veneer Computer-Desk: Drawer-Case Dividers
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-710


    PHOTO

    The drawer-case is strengthened using drawer-dividers and frames.
    NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

    In this special two-episode installment of Wood Works, David Marks constructs a contemporary styled computer-desk. In this segment, the drawer-case is strengthened using drawer-dividers and frames.

    Tools and materials used in this project:

    Claro-walnut stock for veneers
    Maple stock
    Baltic birch plywood stock
    Ebony stock for handles
    Maple plywood stock
    MDF for templates and mockup
    Table saw; cross-cut sled; dado blade
    Miter jig
    Circular saw
    Jointer
    Power planer
    Band saw
    Table router
    Biscuit jointer
    Drill press
    Clamps
    Yellow woodworker's glue
    Slow-setting resin glue
    Glue roller
    Hand scraper
    Hand plane
    File
    Razor hand-saw
    Cordless drill; Phillips screwdriver attachment
    Threaded inserts
    Sandpaper, various grits
    Straight-edge
    Tape measure
    Carpenter's pencil
    Chalk
    Carpenter's tape
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    advertisement




    Drawer-Case Dividers

    Dividers, cut and milled from maple stock, connect the two sides and hold the drawer-case together. As seen on the prototype, three supports are made in the form of maple frames (figure A). Each frame is made with half-lap joints and measures 23-3/4" long x 18-1/4" wide x 1/2" thick. They are glued into the dados that were cut in the sides earlier. The top two dividers are not full frames, and simply span the width across front of the case (figure B).
    Photo

    Figure A

    Photo

    Figure B



    • To make the half-lap joints for the frames, first make a saw-cut in both ends of the stock, using a tenoning jig at the table saw.

    • Then, using the cross-cut sled, cut away the waste to reveal the half-lap (figure C). Equal parts are cut away for each half-lap to maintain the same thickness of the frame (figure D).
      Photo

      Figure C

      Photo

      Figure D



    • Apply yellow glue to the joints, and allow the frames to dry under solid clamping pressure (figure E).

    • Once the frames are dry, square one side at the table saw to prep it for edge-banding. Use a jointed block to ensure that the cut is straight (figure F).
      Photo

      Figure E

      Photo

      Figure F



    • Spread glue along the squared frame-edge and the walnut banding strip.

    • Position the strip, clamp it with tape (figure G) and let it cure for several hours.

    • Edge-band the short top-drawer dividers (figure H) at the same time.

    • Once the glue has dried, scrape all of the edges flush with a hand scraper.
      Photo

      Figure G

      Photo

      Figure H



    • At the table saw, trim the drawer-dividers to length (figure I) and flush up the frame edges.

    • Remove the cross-cut sled and cut the frames to final width (figure J), simultaneously flushing up the banding strips.
      Photo

      Figure I

      Photo

      Figure J



    • Now stack all three frames, and the two dividers, against the fence of the cross-cut sled and cut a 1/8" x 1/4" notch into the banding on both sides (figure K). This will give the banding a 1/16" reveal across the front (figure L).
      Photo

      Figure K

      Photo

      Figure L


      PHOTO

      Figure M
      PHOTO

      Figure N

    • Before assembling the carcass, there is one more step. Since we want this desk to be able to be disassembled for ease in moving. For that reason, threaded inserts (figure M) will be used to connect the carcass with the L-shaped back-panel assembly. The metal collars will be inserted into the back panel, and the screws will come through the side-panel into the collar, pulling the two assemblies together. As such, the inserts act much like clamps.

    • Using a hand-drill, pre-drill two holes through the dado in the panel (figure N), then counter-sink the holes just on the inside.


    • Sand the interior surfaces of the panels with 220-grit. It's easier to sand these surfaces now, before glue-up.

    In the segment that follows, the case is assembled, completing the first phase of this project.


    RESOURCES :

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com


    Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
    Model: 080836878
    Author: Rick Peters
    (2000)
    Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
    Website: www.sterlingpub.com

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: