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  • Trestle Table: Curved Trestle; Base Assembly
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-704


    PHOTO

    In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates an Asian-inspired trestle table from curly maple. This second episode segment focuses creating the shaped trestle and assembling the table base.

    Materials used in this episode:

    Maple stock
    Pernambuco stock for inlay
    MDF for templates
    Table saw
    Dado-blade for table saw
    Band saw
    Jointer
    Drum sander
    Table router; flush-trim bit, & 1/8" round-over bit
    Plunge router
    Oscillating spindle sander
    Random orbit sander
    Jig saw
    Drill press
    Cordless drill
    Hand scraper
    Spoke shave
    Sharp chisel
    Pattern-maker's rasp
    Italian riffler file
    Sanding strip; sandpaper
    Dead-blow hammer
    Carpenter's square
    Flexible bending stick
    Clamps and wood-cauls
    Yellow woodworker's glue
    Cyanoacrylate glue
    Straight-edge
    Carpenter's pencil
    Chalk
    Double-stick tape
    Carpenter's masking tape
    Wood finish: commercial blend of tung oil, linseed oil and urethane
    Paintbrushes and rags
    Safety glasses or goggles
    Protective gloves

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A

    The Curved Trestle

    For design, the trestle that connects between the legs is shaped with curves. To create these curves, another set of templates is fashioned from MDF (figure A) -- one for the top and bottom profile, and another for the sides.

    • An angle is cut on each end of the trestle (figure B).

    • While the stock for the trestle is still square, adjust the angle on the miter gauge to 75 degrees. Using a 40-tooth combination blade, make the angled cut (figure C) on both ends of the trestle.
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


    • With the trestle on its side, trace on the shape of the template that defines the top and bottom curves (figure D).

    • Rotate the trestle, and outline the second template -- the one that defines the curves of the sides.

    • At the band saw, cut out the profile of the top and bottom (figure E).
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E


    • Once the cuts for the top and bottom are complete, tape the fall-off back onto the stock.

    • Tilt the bed of the band saw to 10 degrees, and carefully cut out the curves in the sides (figure F).

    • Remove all of the fall-off to reveal the rough shape of the trestle (figure G).
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


    • An oscillating spindle sander is the perfect tool for removing the saw-marks left by the band saw. To match the angle already cut on the sides of the trestle, tilt the bed of the sander to 10 degrees (figure H).

    • Refine the shape using a random orbit sander.

    • To break and round over the edges, use a spoke shave (figure I).

    • Finish up the sides using a sanding strip and 220-grit sandpaper to soften the edges.
      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I


      PHOTO

      Figure J

    • With the trestle and legs complete, you can conduct a dry-fit of the table base (figure J). Use the dry-fit process to work out your clamping strategy. The unusual shape of this base can present a clamping challenge.

    • After a successful dry-fit, take the pieces apart and do some final refining of the surfaces using 220-grit sandpaper.

    • So that gravity works in your favor, assemble the base on ones side.

    • Apply yellow glue to the leg slots, biscuits and dados (figure K).

    • Set the trestle into the dados (figure L).
      Photo

      Figure K

      Photo

      Figure L


    • Assemble the final side (figure M), sliding it onto the biscuits and into the matching dados. Use a dead-blow hammer to help set them in place.

    • Add even pressure with clamps (figure N).
      Photo

      Figure M

      Photo

      Figure N


      PHOTO

      Figure O
      PHOTO

      Figure P

    Shaping the Tabletop

    While the glue on the base is drying, you can shape the stock for the tabletop that was cut out earlier.

    • Use a straight-edge and ark a center line down the length of the stock.

    • Measure for center, and draw on an intersecting line.

    • Mark out the position where the legs will join the top (figure O).

    • Align the MDF template made earlier, and trace out the shape (figure P).

    • Cut out the shape, close to the line, using a jig saw (figure Q).

    • Double-stick tape the template to the stock, then smooth the edges at the router table using a flush-trim bit.

    • Replace the bit with a 1/8" round-over bit and use it to shape the edges (figure R).
      Photo

      Figure Q

      Photo

      Figure R


    In the segment that follows, the decorative dovetail inlays of pernambuco are added to the tabletop.


    RESOURCES :

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com


    Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
    Model: 080836878
    Author: Rick Peters
    (2000)
    Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
    Website: www.sterlingpub.com

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: