| Contemporary Night-Table: Shaped Top and Assembly |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-701 |
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The edges of the tabletop sweep upward, complementing the table's curved profile.
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The top is curved on three sides, but straight on the backside -- the side that will be against the wall.
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In this episode of Wood Works, David Marks fashions a night table, with a contemporary curved form, from English sycamore. In this segment, he creates the tabletop and assembles the main body of the table. Later, he'll create a drawer from maple hardwood.Materials used in this episode: Sycamore stock
1/4" plywood for templates
MDF for templates
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Jointer
Plunge router
Hand-held plunge router
Random-orbit sander
Biscuit jointer
Cordless drill
Band saw
Drill press
Table router; flush-trim bit; 1-1/4" radius bit
Jointer plane
Sharp chisel
Hand scraper
Pattern-maker's rasp
Wood file
Dead-blow hammer
Clamps
Slow-setting plastic resin glue
220-grit sandpaper
Wood screws
Wood finish
Paintbrushes
Straight-edge
Carpenter's square
Blue carpenter's tape
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Creating the Curved Top
The top of the table is curved on three sides, but straight on the backside -- the side that will be against the wall. The edges are radiused to give the top and upward "lift."- The stock for the top was made from two pieces, edge-glued to give the proper width. Only one side -- the back side that will be against the wall -- was jointed. This side will remain straight for reference.
- To lay out the curves for the top, David created a template from 1/2" MDF (figure A). Be certain to align the template with the straight back-side and the center line.
- Once the shape of the template is traced on, flip the stock over and lay out the marks for the mortises that will join the top to the legs (figure B). From the center line, measure out 7-1/16" on both sides, and draw reference lines. Then lay out the mortises that match the ones made earlier in the leg stock. Again, each mortise measures 5-1/4" L x 1/2" W x 1" D, and they're spaced 1-1/2" apart.
To cut the mortises, clamp a straight board across the stock and use it to reference against the base of the plunge router (figure C). Cut each mortise using a 1/2" router bit. Chisel the corners square using a sharp chisel.At the table saw, cut the tenons from sycamore stock. You'll need four larger tenons to join the legs to the top and two smaller ones to join the back support-rail (figure D).
Next, double-stick tape the MDF template to the stock, and rough-cut the curved shape on three sides at the band saw (figure E).
With the template still attached, flush-trim the edges at the router table. It's best to use a guide-pin, attached to the bed of the router table, to brace the stock and ease it into the bit (figure F) to prevent grabbing and tear-out at the edges.
Change the cutter on the router table to a 1-1/4" radius bit to create the curved accents on the three edges (figures G and H). Again, use the guide-pin to help brace the stock. Cut the curve in two passes to minimize tear-out.For an extra design feature, you can make an additional pass on the sides -- with the bit raised to create a steeper curve.Use 120-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges and remove any burn marks left by the router.
Now you're ready to do a dry-fit of the table components. This is a good time to do a dry-fit as you can check the fit of the tenons and make any adjustments to the fit while, at the same time, checking to determine the exact length of the back support-rail
Use a dead-blow hammer to gently tap the legs onto the tenons and into position. Once it's square, measure the distance between the legs (figure I). It should be 13-1/2 inches.Use the cross-cut sled at the table saw to cut a piece of sycamore (pre-milled to 4-1/4" wide by 7/8" thick) to a length of 13-1/2 inches.In the center of the stock, lay out matching mortises on the ends. Again, the mortises measure 3-1/4" L x 3/8" x 1" deep. Use a sharp chisel to square the ends of the mortises (figure J).
All the parts for the main body of the table are ready. Prior to gluing up the table, two drawer-runners must be added. As seen on the prototype, the 3/4"-wide runners are screwed into the legs and are positioned 1/4" from the back support rail and 3/4" from the front (figure K).
At the table saw, cut the runner stock to length -- 11-1/2" long. We used maple that's 3/4" wide by 5/8" thick. Maple is a good wood to use for door-stock because it's a stable hardwood.At the drill press, pre-drill holes in the stock using a fence and counter-sink bit (figure L).
In the leg stock, pre-drill matching pilot holes using a cordless drill and a spacer made from MDF (figure M).
Cut slots, using a biscuit cutter, around two of the screw holes to allow for wood movement (figure N). The third hole, which will be at the front of the table, will be held in place without a slot -- causing the wood movement to be directed toward the rear.
With the runners prepared, glue-up of the table can begin. To start, attach the rails. Apply glue to the mortises and tenons. Slow-setting plastic-resin glue will provide you with ample time to join the pieces.To help with cleanup, apply blue tape around the joints to catch any glue squeeze-out (figure O).Place the top on two 4x4 cauls and continue applying glue at the joints (figure P).
Once the legs and back support are assembled, clamp it securely. Then place the base onto the top and add good clamping pressure (figure Q). Make certain that the structure is square as you clamp it together.
RESOURCES :
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
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