DIY Network

Contemporary Night-Table: Leg Stock and Joinery From "Wood Works" episode WWK-701

	The gently shaped legs of this table stand on arched feet that mimic the curve of the drawer-front.

In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks creates a contemporary night-table from the light-colored hardwood, English sycamore. Lending to the overall appeal of this table is the curved drawer-front that is cut at the band saw from a thicker piece of sycamore. The drawer itself is made from solid maple and joined with tongue and dado joinery. The drawer front is adorned with a wooden handle made from a dark piece of grenadillo wood that provides visual contrast.

In this first segment, work begins with creation of the leg stock and joinery.

Materials used in this episode:

Sycamore stock
1/4" plywood for templates
MDF for templates
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Jointer
Plunge router
Hand-held plunge router
Random-orbit sander
Biscuit jointer
Cordless drill
Band saw
Drill press
Table router; flush-trim bit; 1-1/4" radius bit
Jointer plane
Sharp chisel
Hand scraper
Pattern-maker's rasp
Wood file
Dead-blow hammer
Clamps
Slow-setting plastic resin glue
220-grit sandpaper
Wood screws
Wood finish
Paintbrushes
Straight-edge
Carpenter's square
Blue carpenter's tape
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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Figure A

Creating the Legs and Joinery

English sycamore is a great-looking hardwood with a curly figure and light tone. This table, highlighted by a variety of gentle curves, stands 28" tall and is 22" wide by 14-1/2" deep. The sculpted legs are attached to the top with mortise and loose-tenons. The drawer is supported by maple runners.

• The stock for our project (figure A) was milled from a large piece of English sycamore. For the top, two pieces were edge-glued together, creating a single piece that is slightly oversized and 1-1/8" thick. The leg stock was cut from one solid piece that was 13-1/2" wide x 26-3/4" long. Because they will be sculpted, this piece is 2" thick.
  

  
  

• For design, two distinct templates (figure B) are made from 1/4" ply. One is for the top curve, and the other is for the bottom of the legs. Both are referenced off the jointed sides, and are traced onto the leg stock (figure C).

  Figure B

  Figure C

  
  

  
  
  

• Using a long ruler, draw a line along the side of the leg-stock connecting the two ends. This line represents the taper from the bottom to the top (figure D). This line will be used as a guideline to sculpt away the material.

• While the stock is still square, lay out the mortises on the ends of the legs where they will join the top (figure E). Each mortise measures 5-1/4"L x 1/2"W x 1" deep. They are spaced 1-1/2" apart.

  Figure D

  Figure E

  
  

  
  

• Use a plunge router, with a fence referenced off the jointed side, to cut the mortises (figure F).

• Square up the mortises using a sharp chisel (figure G).

  Figure F

  Figure G

  
  

  Figure H

  
  
  

• On the jointed, inside faces of each leg, lay out the mortises that will join the back support-rail. This mortise measures 3-1/4" L x 3/8" W x 1" D. It's positioned 5/16" from the side edge and 1/2" down from the top (figure H).

• Again, use the plunge router to cut the mortise, then square the corners of the mortise using a sharp chisel.
  

  Figure I

• With the mortises cut, work can begin on sculpting the legs. Use a hand-held power planer, following the curves that were laid out earlier. As you work, you'll be shaping to the lines to create the taper (figure I). The hand-held power-planer is the most efficient tool for this process. Like a hand-plane, it cuts in straight facets. With its spiral planer-blade, it removes a lot of material quickly.

• Once the rough shape is close, carefully level the surface to the lines using a jointer plane.
  

  
  
  

• Blend the surface further using a hand scraper (figure J).

• Smooth and finish the job using a random-orbit sander (figure K) and, finally, some hand-sanding with 220-grit sandpaper.

  Figure J

  Figure K

  
  

  
  
  

• The final touch on the legs is the shaped feet formed by two curves that meet in the center. Using a flexible template to accommodate the shape of the legs, trace the curves of the feet onto the leg stock (figure L).

• At the band saw, rough out the shape cutting close to the line (figure M).

• Refine the curves of the feet using a pattern-maker's rasp and file. Sand the feet smooth using 220-grit.

  Figure L

  Figure M

  
  

  
  

  
  

  RESOURCES :
  

  The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
  Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
  Publisher: Taunton Press
  ISBN: 1561580619
  

  
  Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
  Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
  Publisher: Taunton Press
  ISBN: 1561583456
  

  David Marks Website
  David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
  

  
  Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
  Model: 080836878
  Author: Rick Peters
  (2000)
  Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
  Website: www.sterlingpub.com

  Fine Woodworking
  A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
  The Taunton Press Inc.
  Website: www.taunton.com

  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	Contemporary Night-Table: Leg Stock and Joinery
  	Contemporary Night-Table: Shaped Top and Assembly
  	Contemporary Night-Table: Drawer Assembly
  	Contemporary Night-Table: Finishing Touches
  	WEB-EXTRA: Sycamore Night-Stand -- Materials List and Cut-Sizes