DIY Network

Inlaid Hall-Table: Base and Top Assembly From "Wood Works" episode WWK-608

	This hall table is constructed from solid cherry.
	A reveal just below the tabletop is created by making matched cuts to the legs and aprons.

With the stock and joinery cut for the hall table, you can now conduct a dry-fit of the elements. At this point you can smooth out the transitions between the aprons and legs and make any adjustments necessary on the integral tenons to achieve a snug fit. After the dry-fit, you may want to use a hand scraper to remove some of the saw-marks left on the elements by the table saw.

Next, work begins on assembling the base and edge-gluing two pieces of cherry to create the table top.

Materials:

Cherry stock
MDF for templates
Table saw
Table router
Band saw
Sandpaper
Hand scraper
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Yellow woodworker's glue
Polyurethane glue
Band clamp
Bar clamps
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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Base and Top Assembly

• According to our design for the curved aprons, the arcs, at their highest points, are 3 inches from top -- on both the long and short aprons. After working out an eye-pleasing arc using a flexible strip, we created templates from MDF for cutting the curved aprons.

• Attach the template to the flat (i.e., back) side of the apron stock, lining up the center lines. Then, at the band saw, rough-cut the curve close to the line (figure A).

• At the router table, clean up the edges using a flush-trim bit (figure B).

  Tip: Since the reveal has already been cut in the stock, be sure to keep the stock stable against the bit by applying strong downward pressure with a push-block. Also, you can reduce the risk of tear-out at the ends by making the templates longer than the stock pieces.

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

  
  

• Once the pieces are cut, use a flexible sanding strip to sand each curve (figure C), and give all the parts a light sanding prior to glue-up.

• For the glue-up, carefully apply yellow glue into the mortises (figure D) and evenly onto the integral tenons.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

  
  

• Assemble the base upside-down so that gravity works in your favor. Once the base pieces are assembled, pull the joints lightly together with a band clamp (figure E) and secure it with bar clamps.

• Once it is stable, turn the base right-side-up (figure F), add more clamps and allow the glue to dry.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

  
  

• While the glue is drying on the base, you can begin work on the top by edge-gluing two solid pieces of four-quarter cherry. Apply polyurethane glue to the exposed edges of the two cherry boards (figure G, and use a roller to spread the glue to ensure even coverage.

• Bring the pieces together and use cauls and clamps to flatten the boards (figure H). Once the boards are secured with clamps, allow the glue to set for about eight hours.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

  
  

• Once the glue has dried, remove any glue squeeze-out using a hand scraper (figure I).

• Cut the top piece to final size at the table saw (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

RESOURCES :

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com