DIY Network

Inlaid Hall-Table: Legs, Aprons and Joinery From "Wood Works" episode WWK-608

	This elegant but understated hall table in constructed from solid cherry.
	An inlaid leaf design adorns the top, adding an eye-catching artistic touch to the table.

In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a hall table highlighted by a beautiful handmade inlay. In this first segment, David gets the project underway preparing the legs, apron and joinery.

Crafted entirely from cherry wood, the noteworthy architectural design elements of this hall table are the apron and handcrafted inlay. The aprons are curved and stepped, creating an eye-catching reveal all around the top of the table. The legs are attached to the aprons using integral-tenon joinery. Each leg has a gentle curve that is cut using a router template. The tabletop is made from two pieces of solid cherry edge-glued together. An asymmetrical inlay in the shape of a leaf is constructed from zircote and adorns the top.

Materials:

Cherry Stock
MDF for templates
Table saw
Band saw
Plunge router
Sharp chisel
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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Legs, Aprons and Joinery

The dimensions of the finished table are 17-1/2" wide by 39-1/2" long. The table stands 30 inches tall.

The stock for the legs and aprons (figure A) was pre-milled. Each leg piece is 1-3/4" square by 29-1/4" in length. The apron stock is 4" wide by 36" long for the long side and 14" long for the short side. Each apron piece is 1-1/8" thick.

The integral tenons for the joinery are shaped into the ends of each apron (figure B). The tenons are cut while the stock is still square.

Figure B

Figure A

• As seen on the prototype, a reveal is crafted into the aprons and legs (figure C). These will effect the placement since the tenons will need to be centered (figure D) even though the reveal has not yet been cut in the stock. On the apron stock, allow an extra 1/4" on the outside face for the reveal.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

  
  

• For strength, each apron tenon should be cut 3/8" thick by 3-1/2" long (figure E). Each is set 1/2" back from the outside and 1/4" back from the inside surface (figure F).

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• Examine each piece of leg stock and determine the front faces for each. Then lay out the mortises to match the tenons. To leave room for the 1/4" reveal that will be cut later, each of the leg mortises should be positioned 1/2" from the outside face.

• Using the cross-cut sled at the table saw, begin cutting the integral tenons on the apron stock by first scoring shoulders, along three sides, 1/4" deep. (figure G).

  Tip: Using a stop-block on the sled will make batch-cutting the shoulders much easier.

• For the final side of each piece of apron stock, leave the stop-block in place but adjust the saw-blade to 1/2" (figure H) to cut a 1/2" shoulder. This depth will accommodate the reveal.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

• At the band saw, with the fence set 1/4" from the blade, batch-cut the cheeks on three sides of the aprons. Another stop-block clamped to the bed (figure I) limits the depth of the cut.

• Then adjust the fence to 1/2" from the blade to remove the final cheek from each piece of apron stock (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  
  

• With the tenons cut, you can now move on to the mortises using a plunge router at the workbench. Using a 3/8" spiral bit, rout in mortises on two side of the leg stock (figure K).

• Then chisel the corners of the mortises square (figure L) to match the tenons.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  
  

• The next step is to cut in the reveals on the aprons and legs. As seen on the prototype, this is essentially achieved using a rabbet cut. The edge is made by cutting a 45-degree angle-cut on the table saw, then finished by removing the excess stock about 1-3/4" deep.

• Once reference lines have been drawn 1-3/4" from the top of the apron and leg stock, raise the table saw blade 1/4" and tilt it to 45 degrees to cut the angle (figure M) in all of the apron stock.

• While the blade is still tilted, cut the angle on the two faces of the leg stock. For safety and stability, support the leg stock using a miter gauge.

  Figure M

  
  

• To create the reveal, adjust the blade back to 90 degrees and raise the height to 1-3/4". With the fence set, you can batch-cut the reveals in all of the aprons (figure N) and the legs (figure O).

• Again, use the miter jig and a piece of MDF to support the leg.

  Figure N

  Figure O

  
  

In the segment that follows, the base and tabletop are assembled.

RESOURCES :

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com