WOODWORKING Index
Antiques
Bedroom
Seating
Chests
Decorative-Accent Furnishings
Shelves & Cabinets
Tables
Products
Woodworking Shop
Other

BEST OF WOODWORKING
Mold Quiz
Home Safety
Room Planner
Pet Care Guide
Weekend Projects
DIY to the Rescue
Sparkling Solutions
Organize Your Home
Ultimate Media Room
Picture Perfect Parties
Queen of Clean

SPONSOR LINKS

  • Contemporary Writing Desk: Apron Stock and Joinery
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-511


    PHOTO

    The simple cherry base of this writing desk is offset by the striking pattern of the richly figured zebra wood.
    PHOTO

    The face of the drawer is cut from the front-apron stock and appears seamless with the surrounding wood of the apron.
    In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a contemporary writing desk of cherry with an exotic zebra-wood top.

    This elegantly designed piece is crafted by combining two exquisite woods. For the top, zebra wood is cut into thin strips, edge-glued and veneered onto a plywood substrate. The unique grain-matched design of the veneer provides a striking appearance.

    The solid-cherry base features tapered legs that gently curve as they join the apron. The front apron is cut from a solid piece of cherry, and from it a single drawer-front is created. In that way, the face of the drawer appears seamless with the surrounding wood of the apron. For the single drawer, maple stock is cut and joined with interlocking rabbets. The joinery for the drawer is strengthened with decorative brass pins. The rich red tones and simple form of the base provide a suitable background for the striking zebra-wood writing surface.

    Materials:

    Cherry Stock
    Table saw
    Multi-router
    Table router
    Jointer
    Straight-edge
    Yellow woodworker's glue
    Glue roller
    Clamps
    Band clamp
    Carpenter's pencil
    Chalk
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when
    working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.
    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Figure E

    The project begins with the cherry base. All of the parts are milled from 8/4 cherry stock (figure A). The aprons are 1-1/2 inches thick. The legs are 1-3/4 inches square and 30 inches long. (The overall height of the desk is 30 inches.)

    Apron-Stock Prep

    • The drawer-front and the apron come from a single board. In this way, the grain of the drawer-front will line up with the surrounding wood to create a seamless appearance to the front of the piece.

    • The stock for the apron is slightly oversized. Begin by marking the position of the center drawer. The design calls for a drawer that is 3-3/4 inches high and 16 inches long, with a 7/8-inch reveal along the top and bottom.

    • To keep the proper grain orientation, mark the face of the apron stock with cabinet-maker's triangles.

    • Using the layout lines as a guide, rip the front apron into three sections (figure B), resetting the fence between cuts.

    • Next, cross-cut the center-section to make the drawer front. As seen on the cut pieces of stock, the pieces create a frame for the drawer-face (figure C) while maintaining the flow of the grain.

    • The next major step will be to glue the pieces back together (minus the drawer-front pieces), moving the sides in slightly to allow for the kerf, keeping the fit tight. Before gluing the front apron together, pass each piece over the jointer to ensure that the edges are flat.

    • Use yellow glue to join the long-grain of the four pieces of the apron together. The chalk triangles help to keep the grain aligned.

    • Add two clamps per side (figure D) and allow the glue to cure for several hours.

    • Once the glue has set completely, rip the front apron to final width at the table saw, trimming a bit off of each side so that the drawer opening is centered on the apron -- maintaining the 7/8-inch border above and below (figure E). Once trimmed, the final apron width is 5-1/2 inches.

    • Using the same settings on the table saw, rip the rest of the stock for the apron to the same width: 5-1/2 inches.


    Rabbet and Joinery

    Before cutting the aprons to length, cut the rabbet that will hold the tabletop. The rabbet is cut first in this way to prevent problems with chip-out. If chip-out does occur at the end of the cut, the damaged area will be trimmed away when the stock is cut to length.

    The top is designed to sit flush with the apron (figure F), so the rabbet needs to be 7/8-inch deep (figure G). That dimension is equal to the total thickness of the substrate and the two layers of veneer that will make up the top.
    Photo

    Figure F

    Photo

    Figure G


    PHOTO

    Figure H
    PHOTO

    Figure I
    PHOTO

    Figure J
    PHOTO

    Figure K
    PHOTO

    Figure L

    • With the height of the table-saw blade raised 7/8-inch, batch-cut a kerf in all of the apron stock (figure H).

    • With the fence reset, and the blade lowered to 1/2-inch (figure I) complete the rabbet on all of the apron stock (figure J).

    • Next, use the cross-cut sled and stop-block on the table saw to cut all of the apron stock to final length: 17-1/2 inches for the two sides, and 41 inches for the front and back (figure K). When trimming the ends off the front apron, use special care to keep the drawer-opening centered in the stock.

    • With all of the key parts for the base cut to size, you can now turn your attention to the joinery and the legs. Mortise-and-loose-tenon joinery is used to join the legs to the apron, and the mortise-cuts are positioned to provide a 1/4-inch reveal where the apron joins the leg (figure L).

    • On the apron stock, lay out each mortise so that it's one inch from the top and 1/2-inch from the bottom, centered in the width of the stock (figure M).

    • On the legs, offset each of the mortises consistently to accommodate the 1/4-inch reveal (figure N).
      Photo

      Figure M

      Photo

      Figure N


      PHOTO

      Figure O
      PHOTO

      Figure P

    • Batch-cut all of the mortises at the multi-router (figure O). This mortising machine operates on linear-motion bearings and makes short work of batch-cutting a number of identical mortises. (If you don't have access to a multi-router, an alternative is using the plunge router at your workbench.)

    • Each of the identical mortises is 3/8-inch wide, 4 inches long and 1/2-inch deep (figure P).

    • For the tenons, use 4-inch-wide cherry milled to 3/8-inch thick. Radius the edges and cut each tenon to a length just shy of 1 inch.

    • With the frame-pieces and joinery all cut, you can now conduct a dry-fit to ensure that the pieces fit together.

    In the segment that follows, the curved legs are cut from the cherry stock and the drawer is made.


    RESOURCES :


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: