| Bubinga-Veneer Coffee Table -- Tabletop Veneer |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-212 |
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The Tabletop Veneer With the maple base built, the next phase of this project is to create the veneered tabletop from apple plywood and bubinga veneer. Materials: Bubinga veneer
Mahogany veneer
3/4-inch apple-plywood for substrate
Table saw
Veneer tape
Carpenter's tape
Yellow woodworker's glue; glue roller
Chalk or carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps: - With the maple base glued and dried, and the corners check to ensure that they are perfectly square, measurements can be taken for the exact dimensions for the tabletop's plywood substrate (figure A).
- Once you have the exact dimensions, cut the substrate from 3/4-inch apple plywood using the table saw. Cut the top piece a bit oversized.
- The top of the table will be covered in bubinga veneer, an African hardwood known for spectacular figure and grain pattern. The wood is also known for maintaining its reddish color without fading. Bubinga is considered an exotic wood, and is generally only available in limited quantities as a veneer sheets (figure B). Commercial veneers like this one are usually 1/42-inch thick.
- To maintain structural equilibrium, veneer must be applied to both sides of the substrate. Rather than using a rare wood like bubinga for the bottom, less expensive mahogany veneer (figure C) was selected for use on the bottom surface of our tabletop. The mahogany veneer is cut to the same thickness as the bubinga -- 1/42-inch.
- The commercial veneers are thin enough that they can be cut using just a utility knife. Using the plywood substrate as a straight-edge, cut the veneer (figure D) all the way around the edges. Cut both veneers slightly oversized.
- Because these veneers are so thin, they crack easily or may have imperfections. If you find any cracks in the veneers, add some veneer tape to the finish-side (figure E) to hold the crack together during glue-up. Adding tape will also prevent the veneer from cracking further.
- Now you are ready to begin gluing on the veneers. Because the veneers tend to bow and curl once glue is applied, you'll need to work quickly. Be careful as you handle the veneers. Have all of your materials (glue, roller, etc.) on-hand before you begin.
- To begin, apply yellow glue evenly to the substrate using a glue roller (figure F).
- Next, apply glue to the mahogany veneer, making certain that you have uniform coverage and no dry spots.
- Place the substrate onto the mahogany veneer.
- Apply glue evenly to the top of the substrate, and to the bubinga veneer.
- Once you have complete coverage on both the substrate and veneer surfaces, place the bubinga veneer onto the substrate (figure G). You'll need to work quickly, as the veneer will begin to bow immediately.
- Once the bubinga veneer is in place, tape the "wood-and-glue sandwich" together using carpenter's tape (figure H) so that neither veneer will slip out of alignment.
- Place the sandwich between two plywood cauls that have been wrapped in plastic to prevent glue from sticking to them (figure I).
- Insert the sandwich into the vacuum press (figure J).
- Once the tabletop is in position, seal the bag tightly and turn on the vacuum press. The vacuum press will apply more than 1500 pounds of pressure per square foot (figure K) and will bond the veneers to the substrate.
- Tip: It's a good idea to keep the press warm to achieve the best bond, especially when working with commercial veneers. If you're working on a cold day, you can cover the vacuum-press bag with an electric blanket (figure L) and tarp to maintain the temperature at 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
In the segment that follows, the tabletop is fit and secured to the frame, and the channel for the decorative inlay is cut. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
The Complete Woodworker's Companion
Author: Roger Holmes
Publisher: Watson-Guptill
ISBN: 0823008665
Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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