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  • Copper-Top Hall Table -- Tabletop Frame
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-111
    advertisement

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    Work begins creating the frame that will hold the patina copper tabletop.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Good clamping pressure during glue-up ensures that the frame is tight and the corners are strong.

    With the legs and apron made and the base assembled, the next phase in constructing the hall table is to create the frame for the tabletop (figure A). The frame is constructed from 1-1/2" black walnut and is cut with a 45-degree bevel on the bottom (figure B). The beveled bottom lightens the proportions on the edge and gives the table an uplifting feel.

    Materials:

    Walnut stock
    Jointer
    Power planer
    Drum sander
    Band saw
    Table saw
    Table router; spiral bit; bevel bit
    Woodworker's glue
    Clamps
    Carpenter's pencil
    Saftety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his website -- information below under Resources.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    Steps:

    1. With the frame stock already cut and milled to dimension, it is ready to be angle-cut for the bevel. The bevel is cut on the table saw using a ripping blade set at a 45-degree angle (figure C). Each piece of walnut stock is carefully cut on the table saw to create the frame stock.

    2. With the bevel cut on the bottom, a rabbet is cut on the top inside edge of the frame stock (figure D) that will be used to hold the copper panel in place.

    3. Since the table saw leaves a rough edge on the rabbet cut, the rabbet is cleaned up on the table router using a spiral router-bit.

    4. The inside top edge of the rabbet is then softened with a slight bevel using a bevel bit on the table router (figure E).

    5. With the bevels cut in the top of the rabbets, the pieces of the frame stock are ready to be miter-cut to prepare them for assembly. The miter-cuts are made on the table saw using a miter jig. The stock is positioned so that the top is facing up and the rabbet is against the fence of the table saw. It is clamped into position in the jig (figure F) so that the stock will be held securely as the cuts are made (figure G).

    6. After the first miter cut is made using one side of the jig, the second cut is made on the opposing side (figure H). The jig is set up with a stop block clamped into place on the jig that will ensure that the lengths for the stock pieces will be exact. The miter cuts will result in corners for the frame that are 90 degrees square.

    7. To cut the longer sides for the frame, the same steps are followed, with an auxiliary fence attached to the miter jig.

    8. Biscuit joinery is used to hold the pieces of the frame together. Since the stock is 1-1/2" thick, a double biscuit joint is used at each corner. A #20 biscuit is used on top and a #10 biscuit at the bottom, where the frame gets narrower (figure I).

    9. Slots for the biscuits are cut into the corners of the frame stock using a biscuit jointer (figure J). Double slots cut into each 45-degree edge (figure K ) will accommodate the wooden biscuits. By combining the two biscuits, the joinery at the corners will be sturdy enough to handle the thickness of the frame.

    10. Glue is applied to the biscuits and 45-degree surfaces, and the frame pieces are assembled and tapped together securely (figure L). The double biscuits add more gluing surfaces, enabling a stronger bond.

    11. A band clamp (figure M) and four bar-clamps are used to pull the miters together to give tight, 90-degree corners.

    12. A carpenter's square is used to make certain that all of the corners are perfectly square (figure N).

    13. Once the frame is glued and clamped securely, it is allowed to stand for a couple of hours as the glue dries.

    In the following segment, the copper panel for the tabletop is created, and work begins on the blue-green patina finish.

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    RESOURCES :

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
    Author: Mark Duginske
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 0942391985

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    The Complete Woodworker's Companion
    Author: Roger Holmes
    Publisher: Watson-Guptill
    ISBN: 0823008665

    The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
    Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
    Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co. ISBN: 0806999500

    Advanced Woodworking
    Model: 0783539126
    Author: Editors of Time Life Books
    1998
    Time-Life Books Inc.
    Website: www.timelife.com

    Popular Woodworking
    F & W Publications, Inc.
    Website: www.popularwoodworking.com

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