DIY Network

Building a Carpenter's Cart Save steps — and your back — when you're moving tools and equipment.

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By Mark Clement

Figure D. The second set of 2x4s will fit between the first set on the underside of the cart.

4. Cut two pieces of 2x4 17 inches long. You arrive at 17 inches by subtracting the width of 2 2x4s from 24 inches — usually 7 inches. Double check the width of your 2x4s before actually cutting the boards to make sure they'll fit.

Figure E. Clamp all four 2x4s to the platform of the cart.

5. Clamp these two 2x4s from step 4 along the remaining sides.

6. Install casters. Note: It's usually smart to pre-drill near the end grain of the 2x4 to prevent splitting. Use high-quality casters that both swivel and lock. They cost a little more than cheapo versions but work so much better. You'll be happy you spent a few extra bucks. If you plan to roll your carts over a finished floor, I highly recommend casters with hard rubber (not plastic) wheel surfaces.

Figure F. It helps to predrill holes for the deck screws.

Figure G. Use deck screws to attach the casters and the 2x4s to the platform.

Figure H. A piece of scrap lumber cut to size serves as a handle for the cart.

7. Flip the assembly right side up and fasten from the top using 1-5/8-inch drywall screws. Install a "handle." We used a scrap of plywood about 6 inches tall by the cart's length. It makes moving the unit around in tight spots easier and helps keep things from sliding off.

After you've done your first cart, start looking for your own 101 uses. Heavy shop tools can live right on their own carts — stuff like planers and bandsaws — while others, such as portable thickness planers, can swap in and out.

When you start thinking like an Egyptian, the world opens up and you'll be on a roll.

Mark Clement is a remodeler and author of The Carpenter’s Notebook and The Kid’s Carpenter’s Workbook, Fun Family Projects! Find out more at www.TheCarpentersNotebook.com.

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