DIY Network

Hand Plane: Shaping and Tuning From "Wood Works" episode WWK-606

The plane is shaped with functional curves that enhance the feel and usability of this elegant woodworker's tool.

In this segment, David Marks completes the assembly and shaping of the hand plane and offers tips for tuning a plane.

Materials:

Band saw
Jointer
Hand scraper
Pattern-maker's rasp
Hand plane
File
220-grit sandpaper
Nylon-faced tap-hammer
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C

Hand-Shaping the Hand Plane

The shape of a hand plane is important. Ideally, it should fit the contours of your hand. It should also lack sharp corners that could catch or snag during use. You can also personalize your plane, adding special design touches that make it distinctive.

• David sketched a shape onto the plane based on a comfortable fit for the hand, and roughed out the curved lines at the band saw (figure A). A slight radius to the front and back, and a softening of the edges of the bed created the right overall feel.

• At the workbench, scrape the top using a hand scraper.

• Next, work the front and back edges smooth using a pattern-maker's rasp (figure B).

• Carefully bevel the two top edges with a hand plane (figure C) to complete the shaping.
  

  Figure D

With the plane basically complete, you can now tune your plane. The objective is to have a perfectly flat bottom, and the mouth as tight as possible when the blade protrudes. The wedge should apply even pressure to the cutting iron and breaker, and neither should rock inside the bed. To assist in tuning the plane, David uses a special hammer with a nylon face for tapping the wood without marring it, and a brass face for tapping the iron.

• To loosen the wedge and back the iron out of the plane, tap the back of the plane. Or, you could tap the top-front.

• Tap the iron lightly to set it deeper in the plane (figure D), or you could tap the front.

• Remember that if you tap to adjust the iron out a bit, you should then tap the wedge to keep it tight.
  

  	Figure E
  	Figure F

• Next, tune the sole of the plane to the iron. As mentioned, the objective is to have a perfectly flat bottom. If the iron has a ways to go before it protrudes from the mouth, remove the iron and joint the sole using a very fine setting on the jointer. If the iron is almost through the mouth, skip the jointer and fine-tune the sole by hand using sandpaper. You may want to tape some sandpaper to a flat surface, and work the sole of the plane back and forth across it. The objective is for the iron to just barely protrude through. Use a straight-edge to check your progress (figure E).

• Another option is to pencil in a reference line at the mouth, then meticulously file to the line (figure F), being careful to file only on the down-stroke to avoid chipping or tearing the edge of the wood fibers.
  

  Figure G

  
  

• Check the position of the iron at the mouth (figure G) by putting strong light behind it. There should be only a narrow, straight opening. If that's not the case, tap the iron, check it, tap the wedge to lock it, then check the mouth again. Continue until you get it just right. Tuning a plane is a slow but intuitive process.
  

  Figure H

  
  

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com