DIY Network

Hand Plane: Sole and Iron From "Wood Works" episode WWK-606

The wedge is used to adjust the positioning of the iron and cutting edge on the hand plane

In this episode, David Marks makes a nine-inch hand plane out of purple-heart wood. In this second segment, with the stock prepared, the process continues with assembling and gluing the elements, then setting the plane's iron in position.

Materials:

Purple-heart stock
Hand-plane iron and chip-breaker (available from woodworking supply shops)
Brass dowel
Jointer
Drill press
Hand scraper
Pattern-maker's rasp
Awl
Straight-edge
Clamps
Cork cauls
Sandpaper; wooden dowel
Yellow woodworker's glue
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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	Figure B
	Figure A

Plane Assembly

• Line up the back of the plane's ramp-block, with one the cheeks flush with the back edge and clamp the elements securely to the work table. Set the iron on the ramp and slide the opposing block into position. Bring the block close to the iron so that the iron rests on the other piece without protruding through the bottom.

• You'll want the iron's edge to rest about 1/16" up from the bottom. This will create a space known as the mouth of the plane.

• With the elements positioned in this way, mark the cheek to indicate the positioning (figure A).

• Apply yellow woodworker's glue to the cheeks (figure B) and to the two pieces of the center-section -- using caution to avoid getting any glue into the bed area.
  

  
  

• Position the center-section elements (figure C) and the final cheek (figure D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

  
  

• Once the final cheek is in place, clamp the assembly -- using cork cauls to avoid denting the wood surface (figure E).

• Carefully remove any glue squeeze-out from the bed area (figure F), as it will be difficult to remove later.

• Allow a few hours for the glue to cure fully.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

  	Figure G
  	Figure H

• Once the glue has dried, use a hand-scraper to remove any excess glue from the sole (figure G), being careful not to damage the mouth of the plane where the iron will later protrude.

• Take a light pass at the jointer to flatten the bottom more evenly.

• Check the positioning with the iron, making certain that the blade doesn't come quite through the mouth. Then, joint both sides.

• Locate the center-point on the block, measure out 4-1/2" on both sides of the center and mark the locations (figure H).
  

• Trim the plane to length using the table-saw and cross-cut sled (figure I).

• With the plane cut to size, the brass pin that will hold the iron in place can be put into position. A hole is drilled across the width of the bed so that the brass pin can be put into place. The iron will be secured with the aid of a wood wedge. The first step is to determine precisely where to drill the holes for the brass pin.

• Since you'll be removing stock at the top of the plane, and you'll want some stock to retain the pin, measure up about 1-1/4" from the sole and draw a line (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

• Transfer the 45-degree angle of the bed, starting from the top of the plane to the outside of the cheeks. Then transcribe the width of the iron -- including the chip-breaker -- onto the cheeks (figure K).

• Then add 3/16" -- for the thickness of the wedge -- and mark that line.

• Next, add another 3/16" for the radius of the brass pin, and mark the position where it crosses the first line. Tap the cross-point using an awl (figure L).

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

• At the drill press, drill the 3/8" hole using a 3/8" U-bit. (This is basically a 3/8" bit, only a few thousandths of an inch. To prevent tear-out, reinsert the scrap piece and drill through it as well (figure M). Be careful where you drill the scrap piece, as this piece will be needed to make the wedge later.

• Use a piece of the brass-pin stock, placed in the drill press, and chase the newly drilled holes to burnish the edges (figure N). This will help ensure a good fit for the actual pin.

  Figure M

  Figure N

  
  

• With the pin-stock cut to size, place the stock in the drill press to polish it with 400-grit sandpaper (figure O). This will shine the brass pin and give it a clean look.

• Tap the pin into place so that it fits snug (figure P).

  Figure O

  Figure P

  
  

• Now you can use the scrap piece to create the wedge that will hold the iron in place (figure Q).

• Use the band saw to cut out the wedge (figure R). The shape includes the top-most portion of the wedge -- often referred to as the finial. This is the part that will be struck with a mallet to drive the wedge into place. The body of the wedge is about 3/16" thick.

  Figure Q

  Figure R

  
  

• Smooth the wedge using a pattern-maker's rasp, followed by a wooden dowel with sandpaper. Then, with the inverted plane held firmly in the vise, bevel the edges of the wedge. Finally, hand-sand the surfaces smooth (figure S).

• Tap the wedge into the plane (figure T), keeping a close eye on the burnish mark to ensure that it's flat.

• To remove the iron from the plane, tap the back of the plane with a hammer to loosen the iron.

  Figure S

  Figure T

  
  

  Figure U

RESOURCES :

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com