DIY Network

Tool Cabinet: Case Assembly From "Wood Works" episode WWK-503

With the door stock, case stock and joinery all cut for the tool cabinet, a dry fit can be conducted in preparation for assembly of the case. Dados will be cut to accommodate the sliding wood doors. A rabbet will also be cut for the back panel.

Materials:

Table router; spiral bit
Plunge router
Drill press
Indexing jig (made from scrap lumber)
Clamps
Yellow woodworker's glue
Glue brushes
Carpenter's square
Safety glasses or goggles

Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David
Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when
working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I

Back-Panel Rabbet and Dados for Doors

• The back panel will be set in a rabbet that is 3/8-inch deep by 1/2-inch wide. The cuts along the two sides go all the way through, while stop-rabbets are cut in the top and bottom cabinet-pieces. With the case dry-fit together, layout marks can be made to indicate where to stop the cuts for the stop-rabbets.

• At the router table, use a spiral bit to cut the rabbets in two passes. Multiple passes allow the rabbets to be cut (figure A) without wood chip-out.

• To hold the doors in place, two dados are cut in the top and bottom pieces. The dados are placed so that the front door, once installed, is stepped back by 1/4-inch from the front edge of the side pieces (figure B). The two dados are spaced 3/16-inch apart (figure C). The dados are cut 1/4-inch deep on the bottom piece. On the top piece they are cut 1/2-inch deep to allow for the doors to be easily installed and removed. Using these guidelines, mark the top and bottom pieces to make your cuts.

• Using the plunge router, cut the dados 1/4-inch deep in the bottom stock.

• Keeping the fence set in the same position, make the 1/2-inch dados in the top piece (figure D) in two 1/4-inch passes.

• To position and drill holes in the side pieces to accommodate the shelf pins that will support the shelves, create an indexing jig from scrap plumbe. This will allow for uniform placement so that the holes line up perfectly. We placed the holes 1-7/8 inches from the edge (figure E) at the front and rear of each side piece. This will allow the placement to clear the door and back panel.

• Referencing from the bottom of the side piece, line the jig up and drill the pre-spaced holes using a drill press. Double-stick tape can be used to keep the jig from slipping as you drill the first row of holes. Drill each of the holes to 3/8-inch deep.

• Re-set the jig to drill the second row of holes (figure F). We made the spacing options so that the first and last shelf would sit about 6 inches from the top and bottom, and the holes in-between were spaced about 2 inches apart.

• Repeat the process on the second piece of side stock to create the two matching rows of holes (figure G).

Case Assembly

With all of the elements for the case complete, assembly can begin.

• This is a simple, straightforward glue-up. Apply glue to the mortises and tenons.

• Set the side pieces in place (figure H), followed by the top.

• Lay the assembly on a flat surface and clamp it securely to allow the glue to dry (figure I). Before the glue has set, conduct a final check to make sure that the assembly is square.
  

In the segment that follows, the sliding wood doors are completed and installed.

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