DIY Network

Tool Cabinet: Stock and Joinery From "Wood Works" episode WWK-503

The stone-like sculpting of the solid cherry cabinet provides a solid feel for this tool cabinet, while book-matched door panels of dark Hawaiian koa wood create striking visual contrast.

In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a craftsman's tool cabinet that's both a functional storage case and a visually attractive addition to the artisan's workspace. This sturdy, versatile cabinet offers a simple but elegant solution for covered storage of valued tools.

Crafted from solid cherry, this master's tool cabinet provides a wonderful opportunity to show off one's skills and tools. The sides of the case are joined to the top and bottom with mortise and loose tenons, and the top and bottom are shaped by hand and plane to soften the overhang and add visual interest. Solid pieces of koa -- a beautifully figured wood native to Hawaii -- form the matched sliding-doors, and handcrafted handles of dark rosewood add a distinguishing touch. The doors glide smoothly in channels cut in the case, and they are easily removable for added versatility. The shelves provide plenty of storage and space and the inside of the case is adorned with handmade accessories such as racks and holders custom made to hold hand-tools.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I
	Figure J
	Figure K
	Figure L
	Figure M
	Figure N
	Figure O

Materials:

Cherry stock
Koa stock
Moisture meter
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Jointer
Band saw
Plunge router
Table router
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David
Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when
working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

Stock and Joinery

• When making solid-wood doors from, it's important that the wood is well seasoned. Check the seasoning using a moisture meter (figure A). If you're using an air-dried wood, make sure that the moisture content of the stock is down to around 8 to 10 percent. A wood with moisture content of 12 percent or higher should not be used. In our case, we used kiln-dried wood, which typically has a moisture content of 6 to 8 percent.

• Beginning with four-quarter stock that's 7 feet long and 9 inches wide, we cut the stock into pieces at the table saw to make it easier to handle (figure B).

• Joint one edge of the stock (figure C) to provide a smooth, flat edge for reference.

• Re-saw the panel at the band saw to create book-matched panels that are 3/8-inch thick (figure D).

• After re-sawing the wood for the doors, it's advisable to set the wood aside and let it acclimate to the environment of the workshop for about two weeks. Stack the panels on narrow strips of wood -- called stickers -- so that air can circulate freely around the wood as it acclimates (figure E).

• The final dimensions of this cabinet will be based on the final size of the two book-matched doors. Once the door-panels are re-sawn, you can measure the stock to see how wide the material is. Once this dimension is determined, the case can be designed around that measurement. In our case two doors, each 17-1/2 inches wide (and allowing for a bit of overlap in the sliding doors), means that the length of the finished cabinet will be about 38 inches, including the sides and base. The cabinet will be 32 inches high by 10 inches deep.

• Our case is made from solid cherry. The side pieces are 3/4-inch thick (figure F). To add visual weight to the case, thicker 1-inch stock will be used for the top and bottom.

• Our top and bottom pieces were cut down from 5-quarter cherry stock. For design, the faces of the top and bottom pieces are shaped, and 1/4-inch reveals are left at the side and front (figure G). The straight part of the edge is also 1/4-inch. This provides visual continuity and a nice even reveal around the corners.

• On the top and bottom stock, scribe a line 1/4-inch from the base (figure H) to guide the cut that will create the reveal. Also scribe a 45-degree layout mark for the bevel.

• Using the cross-cut sled at the table saw, carefully raise and tilt the blade to 45 degrees and cut the bevels on both ends of the top and bottom stock (figure I).

• Leaving the blade at the same 45-degree settings, rip the bevel along the front edge of the top and bottom pieces (figure J) to create the shaped profile.

• For the side pieces, rip the 3/4-inch cherry stock to width (9 inches wide) at the table saw.

• Use the table saw and cross-cut sled to cut the stock to its final length of 29-7/8 inches (figure K).

• Mortise and loose-tenon joinery will be used to assemble the case, with two 3-inch mortises on each side. Use a pencil and straight-edge to create layout marks for the mortises. Center the mortises in the stock so that they are set in 1 inch from either edge, with 1 inch between the two mortises (figure L).

• Place the side piece on the bottom stock to transfer the layout lines for the joinery onto the bottom piece (figure M). Don't forget to allow for the 1/4-inch reveals.

• With the side-stock securely in a vise, use a plunge-router to cut out the mortises. Each of the mortises should measure 5/8-inch deep, 1/4-inch wide and 3 inches long.

• Using your layout marks as a guide, cut matching mortises in the top and bottom stock (figure N). To align the router, allow the fence of the router to ride along the flat end of the top and bottom stock (figure O).

• Create matching tenons from cherry stock. Radius the edges of the tenons to match the mortises using a 1/8-inch round-over bit at the table router. Cut the tenons to length at just 1/16-inch shy of 1-1/4 inches -- to allow room for the glue.
  

In the segment that follows, the dados are cut for the sliding doors and the case is assembled.

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