In this second segment host Amy Devers explains edge banding, demonstrates how to apply the material and then starts on the joinery.
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 Host Amy Devers shows how to apply edge banding to the shelves.
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Materials:3/4" plywood with walnut veneering Cross-cut system Pre-glued walnut edge banding Pencil Small roller Edge band trimmer Dowels Masking tape Dowel centers Stainless steel tubes Stainless steel washers Threaded rod Threaded insert Screws Nuts Large forstner bit Small forstner bit 1/2" drill bit 220-grit sandpaper Cloths Tent Lacquer Lacquer thinner Sealer 400-grit sandpaper Synthetic steel wool Wood glue Clamping blocks Small paint brush Metal chop saw Safety glasses Tools: Table saw Circular saw Hot iron Doweling jig (aluminum or wood) Drill Combination square Tape measure Clamps Awl Plastic mallet Orbital sander Professional spray gun Disc sander
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 Figure A
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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 Figure D
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 Figure E
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 Figure F
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 Figure G
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 Figure H
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Edge Banding and JoineryFYI: Edge band is just like tape but it's wood. It's pre-glued with a heat activated adhesive (figure A). - To adhere the edge banding, hold it against the work piece pressing firmly with an iron set on medium (figure B). As the glue melts, the edge banding adheres to the wood.
Note: It is important to move the iron slowly. - With a small roller, apply pressure to the edge. This insures the melted adhesive gets a tight grip before it sets up.
- The edge band comes a little oversized, so a tiny edge needs to be trimmed off. Use an edge band trimmer and run it along the edge (figure C) and it will trim it flush.
- The next step is the joinery process. All of the joints in this piece are butt joints. A butt joint is just like it sounds--one piece of wood butted up to the other (figure D). They need to be reinforced, so you need to use dowels.
- The first step in doweling is drilling the holes to receive them. Make sure that the holes on both sides of the joint line up properly. You can make a homemade doweling jig by welding some scraps of aluminum together (figure E) or make one out of wood--or you can just measure for each hole. Put it where you want the side panel to line up and drill the holes.
- Make the measurements for the doweling jig a few inches off the end of the shelf using the combination square. Set the jig to each mark and then drill the dowel hole.
- To make sure the holes are a uniform depth, use masking tape as a depth indicator on the drill bit. Repeat the process, drilling all of the dowel holes.
- Secure the side panels to the work table. Again, using the jig, drill the corresponding holes to attach the butt joints (figure F).
- Because the side panels are joined at the top and bottom to the shelves, drill the opposing ends on the side panels to receive the dowels.
- Do a check fit. Put the pieces together with the dowels in the holes and make sure all the joints line up and everything is snug.
- Insert the dowels in the top part of the side panel.
- To finish this process off, fit the panel and the dowels together.
- To construct the plinth (which is designed to give you clearance for feet, and or brooms or vacuums and it reinforces the shelves), drilling holes is the first step. Clamp the side of the plinth to the work table and using the doweling jig as a guide, drill equally spaced holes.
- Insert the dowel centers into the holes. These will mark the spot for the dowels on the corresponding pieces of wood. To mark the placement for the dowels on the front section of the plinth, start by setting the 90-degree jig and clamp it down.
- Line the side piece up with the jig and press down creating divots on the front of the plinth.
- Use an awl and hammer and gently tap into the center of the mark. Set the drill in the indent and make the dowel holes using tape as a guide.
- Insert dowels into the side (figure G), then the front of the plinth and the joints line up perfectly.
- Dry fit all of the parts.
- Drill the holes for the center supports.
Note: To give you an idea of how this all goes together--the stainless steel tubes and washer act as a standoff between the two shelves. They also conceal the threaded rod. The threaded rod cinches everything together, and to anchor in there, it anchors into a threaded insert (figure H). - Create the hole for the threaded insert. It is a two step hole and is easy to make with two different sized forstner bits.
- Make evenly spaced marks on the underside of the top panel.
- Drill a shallow hole to house the top lip of the threaded insert.
Note: A forstner bit is a specialty wood cutting bit that rides on semi-circular spurs and is used to make a clean flat bottom hole. - Next, with a narrower forstner bit, drill deep enough for the shaft. Test to make sure the threaded insert fits flush into the holes.
- Drill holes in the three shelves for the bookcase with 1/2" drill bit. These holes are for the threaded rod to pass through.
In the next segment Amy applies the lacquer finish and installs the three boxes that make up the bookshelves.
RESOURCES :
Delta Woodworking Power Tools
Website: www.deltawoodworking.com
Festool
Website: www.festoolusa.com
Gladiator Garageworks by Whirlpool
Website: www.gladiatorgw.com
Stanley Tools Product Group
Website: www.stanleytools.com
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, Inc.
Website: www.lie-nielsen.com
WMH Tool Group
Website: www.wmhtoolgroup.com
Power Tools (Porter Cable)
Porter Cable Power Tools
Website: www.portercable.com
Hand Tools
Garrett Wade Co., Inc.
Website: www.garrettwade.com
The Peck Tool Company
Website: www.pecktool.com
Biesemeyer
Website: www.biesemeyer.com
Jogensen Adjustable Clamp Company
Website: www.adjustableclamp.com
Adhesives, Abrasives and Safety Equipment The 3M Company
Website: www.3m.com
Klein Tools
Website: www.kleintools.com
Ulmia GmbH
Website: www.ulmia.de
Woodcraft
Website: www.woodcraft.com
Shop Equipment
Eagle Manufacturing Company
Website: www.eagle-mfg.com
Lumber
Timber Products
Website: www.timberproducts.com
Spray Equipment
Apollo Sprayers Int'l. Inc.
Website: www.hvlp.com
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